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September 21, 2009 by
With hunting seasons either already started or rapidly approaching, getting your dog in peak physical condition will go a long way to making sure he's ready and able to carry out the rigors of hunting, suffers less soreness after the hunt, reduces his chances of injury and just flat-out enjoys himself!
With that said, there are many ways to get your dog (and yourself) into shape. Running, whether beside you (if you're one to get in shape) or by roading (running behind/beside an ATV, often dragging/carrying weight) is one way to do it. While effective, it can lead to injuries and overheating.
The best exercise you can give your dog is to swim him. Throwing retrieves or just free swimming is a low-impact, resistance excersice that won't overheat your dog or cause it joint/impact-issues.
A rule of thumb is: an IN SHAPE dog should be able to swim as far/as long as it can run.
The caveat is IN SHAPE. To get them in shape in the first place though, you have to start somewhere. That starting point is today, if you haven't already begun a conditioning program, and just like humans, starts slowly and gradually.
Short swims with rest and more swimming will quickly get your dog in tip-top shape. Gradually increase the duration and repetitions of swims over the next couple of weeks.
[ Read Full Post ]September 17, 2009 by
After being without a truck for some months, I finally bit the bullet and bought a used 2001 Chevy Blazer LT. While I'd prefer a truck, the Blazer fit the four requirements I had: four-wheel drive, big enough to haul the dog, room/a place to put the kiddo's car seat and within my budget (those aren't listed in any particular order, by the way...).
What accessories have you SUV (and truck/car guys) enjoyed the most? Are there certain brands you like better than others? Are there budget-saving brands/ideas out there? I want to hear some thoughts on how best to outfit this baby for hunting, fishing and dog training.
Below are some ideas on things I might want to add on, please let me know what, if anything, I'm missing and/or things that really aren't worth it.
In-Cab Cargo Caddy
Like in the picture, something that can fit in the far back cabin of the Blazer and can securely hold all my dog-training gear: bumpers, collars, check cords, blank gun, ammo, etc.
It has to be low-profile enough, however, that a Lab-sized dog box can still fit back there.
External Cargo Carrier
The internal caddy is great for all the little stuff, but I think I'll need a heavy-duty external carrier that fits into the receiver hitch for larger items like bags of decoys, deer stands, etc. I found these at Cabela's:
Option #1: Valley Industries Heavy-Duty Cargo Carrier: The price looks pretty good and I like the high-rising sides around it.
Option #2: Bumper Buddy Cargo Carrier: Aluminum would make it lighter but the price is a bit more. Not sure if the railing around it is as high as the Valley model.
Option #3: Masterbuilt Magnum Hitch-Haul: Plain Jane, but the price is definitely right!
Gun Rack
With the dog box in the back, I could just lay the guns in their cases on the back seat (provided it's not filled with hunting buddies, other gear or my kid's car seat), but what truck is complete without a gun rack?
Which option is the best?
Option #1: Overhead Rack: I like the fact that the guns would be a little more out of sight (maybe?) and the price isn't too bad, but how hard are these things to install (keep in mind, I'm about as useful as teats on a boar when it comes to mechanical skills) and how often would I smack my noggin on a gun barrel or butt?
Option #2: Behind the Seat Rack: I'm liking the easy installation here, accessibility and especially the price with this one! Little worried about how secure the guns would be; I mean, are they going to jiggle back and forth going down a washboard gravel road?
Option #3: Shelf System: I've always been intrigued by this set up. Anyone every use it? It says simple setup, but they always say that!
Fishing Rod Rack
I'm also thinking some type of fishing-rod rack would be needed. I believe the overhead gun-rack can be used to hold fishing rods, but I wonder how many?
Something like the Rod Bunk Deluxe might work better.
I could team the behind-the-seat gun rack with the overhead fishing rack and be set for either, without having to pull out an overhead gun rack.
Other Stuff?
There are other things I'm missing, from spotlights to little iPod mounts, but I think the listed items should get me started. What are some of the little things you've found useful in SUVs, passenger cars or the cab of your truck? What am I missing?
Thanks for your thoughts!
[ Read Full Post ]September 15, 2009 by
As a recent first-time father I quickly recognized the similarities between dogs and kids (seriously, Super Nanny and Dog Whisperer are essentially the same show!). It wasn't until last night, however, that I came to fully appreciate the parallels.
My three-year-old son, Tucker, had finished dinner and wanted to get down out of his seat. "Tucker down?" he asked. When I prompted him to add a 'please' to the request, he insisted, "Tucker down!"
What transpired was a near-two-hour standoff over the use of the word "please." And that's when the full brunt of dog training and child rearing hit me.
He tried getting out of the chair and walking away. I put him back without saying a word or showing emotion; just as you would a dog leaving "sit/stay."
He tried pitching a fit: screaming, crying and ranting; just as some dogs try the alligator roll when being forced to heel or hollering and avoiding complying during force fetch. I just let him pitch the fit, but while remaining in his seat.
When he calmed down, I tried talking to him and getting him to add "please" to his arsenal of communication. He tried ignoring me and looking the other way; just as many dogs do when asked to perform the task "hold" for the first few times. I walked away.
After that approached failed (along with a few more attempts at getting down), Tucker tried the cute approach. He laughed and giggled, asked to be lifted up, said, "Daddy, toes!" as he held his foot up and played with the big toe. Many dogs will try to distract and butter you up by nudging a hand for petting, licking or performing a known attention-getter when asked to carry out a task it would really rather not do.
I was getting desperate. Much like dog training, sometimes you just have to take a small victory and call it good, making note to work on the issue at a later time (like not right before bed). At this point I just wanted a "please" from his lips, regardless of what it was for. I broke out the frozen fruit bar and started eating it in front of him.
"Daddy, ice ceam!" Tucker said, standing on his chair and reaching out for it.
"Say 'please,'" I asked. He didn't just not say it, he refused to say it. Ice cream is the one item that is almost guaranteed to elicit a "please," complete with cute sign-language tummy rubbing. All it brought forth this time was more demanding and, believe it or not, a "NO PEASE!" Again, I walked away, leaving him in the middle of the kitchen on his chair.
When I tried to cajole a "please" from him once again, he tried a very, very smart thing. "Daddy, wet!" he said, pointing to his diaper. Since we're also potty training, it presented a dilemma: remove him from the chair to reward the acknowledgement of a wet diaper or leave him to sit in the chair, which would accomplish one goal but take us a step back in the other. I'm not sure if there's a correlation with dog training here or not, but I guess you could draw the connection of a dog going through force fetch complying with the exercise too fast; they're carrying out the required task but are trying to do it on their terms before the pinch is applied.
So, I grabbed a Pull-Up, changed him on the chair, put his pajamas on, gave him a blanket and turned out the overhead light (the light over the sink was still on). He sat, seemingly content, making rocket noises and playing with his blanket.
To add insult to the injury of spending nearly two hours demanding "please" from a toddler, my mother (whom we're visiting) and my wife kept saying things like: "Well, he's definitely your son" and "I've seen that look before!" and "Like father like son."
I was trying to figure a way out of this situation that wouldn't undermine the importance of "please" in a little man's vocabulary. Walking back into the kitchen, I knelt down in front of his chair and tried once again to ask him to say "please."
"Daddy, banky fall," he said as his former rocket dropped to the floor.
"Yes, Tucker, it did."
"Daddy, banky..."
"Tucker, can you say: 'down please'," I interrupted.
"Tucker down pease," he said, as plain as day and as if the last two hours had never happened.
Big hugs, thank yous and happy times ensued--complete with a Tigger-hunting escapade with his new Nerf gun. Just like in dog training, rewards, no matter how many times you have to repeat a drill or stick with a concept, are needed when the dog finally gets it right.
As an aside, at breakfast, lunch and dinner today, "Tucker down pease" flowed easily from his mouth. Similarly, in dog training, once a dog, even a stubborn one, understands or decides to accept a lesson, compliance often comes easier in each successive repetition.
However, I'm betting future testing of the "please" issue will arise, and just as in dog training, it's up to the handler/parent to remain vigilant and to not become complacent in letting standards slip. After all, dogs and children both only learn what we allow them to learn. That, of course, though is the hard part for all of us...I hope I'm up for the task!
[ Read Full Post ]September 14, 2009 by
Tom Dokken knows dogs. He's been training field trial and hunting dogs for more than 30 years, invented the Dokken Deadfowl Trainer (a staple in all retriever-trainer's bags), has given seminars across the country and owns one of the largest all-breed hunting dog training facilities in the country. To top it off, he and his wife, Tina, are among the nicest people you'll ever meet.
His new book, "Tom Dokken's Retriever Training: The Complete Guide to Developing Your Hunting Dog", is a work of art. Not only is it filled with clear step-by-step instruction on developing a hunting dog (from your first day together through force fetch to teaching handling; approximately the first year of training), it's produced on high-quality paper with incredible color photos illustrating every point.
One of the coolest nuggets of wisdom is discussed in chapter two and is a lesson you can teach any dog the first day you pick him up. Literally, the first time you pick him up.
Introducing "Pressure On, Pressure Off"
"Remember that every time you are with your puppy you are training. It starts when you are holding him and he starts to struggle because he wants to get down," says Dokken. "Don't give in. Instead, when he starts to fight, hold him against you, and if he starts to struggle harder, increase the pressure even more by holding him just a bit tighter against your body. Once he quits fighting you, release the pressure, and after he remains still for five seconds you can then set him down. He's learning that you won't accept that type of behavior. You are showing him that only when he complies will he get his way. Just think, during the first minute you hold your new pup, you have an opportunity to teach a lesson that will stay with him his whole life."
Dokken says that you, too, learn something in this first minute of meeting: what kind of pup you've chosen (headstrong or soft) and how much pressure he needs to be compliant. He says you should repeat this exercise several times a day for three or four weeks and advocates that the entire family practice the drill to help teach pup his place within the family/pack.
Not only is it an exercise in psychological domination, it's your pup's first experience in learning to turn pressure off--something that's very important, especially if you're going to train via a force-type program.
"When a puppy tries to get his way and fails, he will stop for just a split-second while he tries to figure out another avenue," says Dokken. "In the example I just gave where he is struggling to get down, when he stops struggling I don't set him down, but I instantly lighten my hold on him. And in that brief moment, he has learned that compliance stops pressure."
And that is what I find so cool about this little drill. You can use it to set the stage for future training from the very first moment you meet your dog! Of course, you have to follow through consistently in all other avenues of daily living and training, but this is one of those little things that you can easily use to hardwire your dominance and way of life into your pup's little brain during that all-important imprinting period.
"I can't overemphasize the importance of this concept," says Dokken. "Soon you will be introducing other forms of pressure into obedience training, which could come via a leash, check cord or electronic collar. The type of pressure will change as you progress in your training, but the concept of pressure on, pressure off is constant."
[ Read Full Post ]September 9, 2009 by
In the Gun Shots blog, John Haughey, and by proxy, Alan Clemons, does a great job outlining the danger Cass Sunstein, Obama's pick to head the Office of Information and Regulatory Affairs (for which he might be confirmed as early as today), poses to hunting and how/why hunting and firearm organizations oppose his nomination.
I thought I'd take it a step farther and provide you with the source material, straight from the horse's mouth, and some of the highlights from his University of Chicago White Paper (along with some of my own comments), entitled "The Rights of Animals: A Very Short Primer".
We can build on existing law to define a simple, minimal position in favor of animal rights: The law should prevent acts of cruelty to animals.
My 2 cents: This is what makes "smart" AR folks so dangerous. Unlike the "dumb" ones (PETA), the "smart" ones (think: HSUS) work the system and establish society's first step on a slippery slope. Pass one law or use ambiguous language in a bill upon which to build a future case for your position.
If the suffering of animals matters—and every reasonable person seems to think that it does—we should be greatly troubled by these limitations. The least controversial response would be to narrow the “enforcement gap,” by allowing private suits to be brought in cases of cruelty and neglect. Reforms might be adopted with the limited purpose of stopping conduct that is already against the law, so that the law actually means, in practice, what it says on paper. Here, then, we can find a slightly less minimal understanding of animal rights. On this view, representatives of animals should be able to bring private suits to ensure that anticruelty and related laws are actually enforced.
My 2 cents: So now you build the law upon the minimal position to "prevent cruelty to animals" and jump to allowing animals to bring personal lawsuits. 1. The ambiguousness of "cruelty" opens the door to all manner of regulation; what's pampering to one person is cruelty to another 2. In theory it's absurd, in practice it's been abused and has made a mockery of the Endangered Species List. "Representatives" can and do already bring suit on behalf of animals (see Andrew McKean's blog on wolf hunting and note the list of plaintiffs).
The very idea might seem absurd. But it is simpler and more conventional than it appears. Of course any animals would be represented by human beings, just like any other litigant who lacks ordinary (human) competence; for example, the interests of children are protected by prosecutors, and also by trustees and guardians in private litigation brought on children’s behalf.
My 2 cents: Might seem absurd? It is absurd. And dangerous. Power is being given to a radical group of people upon which judicial law will be written and common sense eroded. Comparing animals to children is also a favored tactic of AR people. I like Carl Cohen's rebuttal to this approach when he writes that the test for moral judgment "is not a test to be administered to humans one by one,"but should be applied to the capacity of members of the species in general."
We might ban hunting altogether, at least if its sole purpose is human recreation. (Should animals be hunted and killed simply because people enjoy hunting and killing them? The issue might be different if hunting and killing could be justified as having important functions, such as control of populations or protection of human beings against animal violence.)
My 2 cents:And there it is. Although posed as a hypothetical ("we might"), taken in context with his other statements and writings, it's obvious Sunstein is anti-hunting. To his second point, hunting isused to control game populations and protect human beings; take a look at the number of cougar attacks in California since lion hunting was banned for proof. Additionally, his use of the word "justified" is scary in that it suggests some type of judicial sanctioning and approval/proof of populations needing control and/or human protection; upon which hunters would run into judicial precedent written in favor of animal rights/protection. Of course, targeted game species would be represented in court by humans and the whole mess is tangled in the judicial system (per the wolf debate, et al), becoming costly, time consuming and ultimately unsustainable for hunters.
In his conclusion, Sunstein makes this statement:
There is no good reason to give public officials a monopoly on enforcement; that monopoly is a recipe for continued illegality.
My 2 cents: Sunstein is advocating that the government and our legal system is ill-equipped and unable to handle the enforcement of current laws and therefore private citizens should be able to file suit on behalf animals in order to keep them safe from harm. At this point I'm going to take the AR approach: put this in terms of humans. When George W. Bush brought about the Patriot Act after 9/11, one section of it caused an outcry and was removed (and rightly, so, in my opinion). That section charged and gave individuals certain powers of state and would promote spying upon neighbors/clients, promoted false allegations and a whole string of other complications. Now, Sunstein believes we should give similar powers to the public, and by proxy aggressive, radical groups, in the interest of animal rights? That's not just a recipe for the end of hunting, but a quagmire for society in general.
[ Read Full Post ]September 3, 2009 by
With dove season, and for that matter early goose and even teal seasons, going full bore, you need to take precautions to keep your pup safe.
The early seasons are a great time for us to knock the rust off our wingshooting and head afield, but the with the September 1 openers comes the danger of heat-related injuries and death for our four-legged friends.
When you hit the field this weekend, be sure to keep them safe by using the following tips:
Shade: Set up in the shade of a tree if possible. On dove hunts this is often the case, but make sure pup stays in the shade between retrieves.
Water: Bring plenty of water to give your dog between retrieves and periodically while you're sitting there. Also, if you set up near a pond, let him jump in and swim between flights. A wet coat and skin will help keep him cool via evaporative cooling.
Get off Your Butt: If your dog is doing a lot of retrieves, make him sit while you pick up the easy ones. Not only will it help keep him cool, it will help maintain his steadiness.
Water Additives: Tablets and powders like Rehydrate supposedly help dogs replace electrolytes lost during extensive workouts and hot weather. I'm not sure they do that, but my dog does tend to drink more water during dove hunts when I add the tablets...and that's what I'm concerned about.
Rest: Dove hunting is nice in that you can give ample rest between flights and retrieves, but if the action is hot and heavy, make sure you don't over do it.
Pick Your Battles: Working steadiness, delivery, marking off the gun and honoring are hallmarks of a dove hunt. They also usually take place in hot weather and dusty fields. Doves don't put out much scent, so they also allow you to work on handling and keeping your retriever in the area of the fall when he wants to hunt big. However, keeping your dog on an extended hunt just to pick a single dove can might not be the smartest move. Give him a chance to pick a blind/memory, but if he's having difficulty, don't keep trying to handle him and making him work in that heat. Walk out and make the area of fall smaller and smaller until he can easily find it.
[ Read Full Post ] September 3, 2009 by
I'm working on a photo gallery for OL.com on the best quail dogs and wanted to get your input on which breeds you believe are the most adept and qualified for chasing the diminutive fowl.
Think about the diverse terrain various species of quail can be found in--from thick Southeast pine forests in Georgia to the wide-open expanses of West Texas to the hills of Southern California--and you can see that the best quail dog would have to be comfortable in many different situations. Not to mention tained well enough to allow a hunter a shot over them in those various habitats.
With quail traveling in coveys, often surprising the flushing-dog hunter, I'd have to say a pointing breed would make the best quail dog. But that leaves a lot of room for individual choices.
So what say you Gun Dog aficianados? English pointer? Setter? Brittany? Pointing Lab? Vizla? Springer spaniel? German wirehair or shorthair pointers?
I'm going to ask a pro or two what breeds they think make the best quail dogs and what the pros and cons are for each of those breeds. Lets see if our list of dogs and qualifications match or differ from theirs. If you want, send me a pic of your dog and I might be able to get it into the gallery to be featured here on the site. Email it to: oldogblog@yahoo.com.
[ Read Full Post ]September 1, 2009 by
"Do you want a smart dog or a dumb dog?" It seems like a fairly easy question to answer doesn't it?
We all like to think we have a smart dog. Maybe not the smartest dog in the world, but a damn smart one nonetheless. Talk to people about their dogs and almost everyone will tell stories about how their Fido knows this or that and always figures out how or when something is happening or what we, the owners, are going to do next.
No doubt, reading humans and reacting to achieve desired goals (i.e., snacks, a comfy sleeping spot, getting excited when the hunting gear comes out) is a fairly complex and smart thing for a dog to do. It's also not really a measure of intelligence, but rather of survival.
What I'm talking about is training/learning aptitude, so I'll ask again: "Do you want a smart dog or a dumb dog?"
Most of us would still probably say a smart dog. I mean, who wouldn't, right? A smart dog would probably do better in the field, put you on or retrieve more birds, figure things out faster, etc. And that's all true. However, are you sure you want that?
I'm here to tell you, a dumb dog isn't necessarily a bad thing. Especially for beginner trainers.
Just like everyone else, I have a smart dog. When he was about 6 months old, I took him to a seminar. Part of the seminar was on heeling. I was having trouble keeping Kona's attention. His nose was down sniffing, he was looking away, etc. The pro giving the demonstration took the lead and started to work on heel with him. When Kona's attention would drift, the pro would step into him or away from him. Almost every time, Kona could avoid the correction. He was effectively doing two or three things at once. That's when the pro stopped and said: "This little dog knows more than he's letting on. He's a smart dog, which is good and bad." And then he made the point I'm going to make with blog post. (Just as an aside, I've seen Kona twist up and leave a couple of pros breathless trying to fine-tune his heeling. We've since got it down pretty good.)
A smart dog will learn everything you teach it faster than a dumb dog. He'll learn where the birds are, what you want him to do in a drill, how you want him to react, etc.
He'll also learn everything he can get away with, when he can get away with it, when you're not paying attention or in position to give a correction. He could try to undermine you and/or manipulate you into ending training pressure. With a smart dog, you have to be on your toes and know what you're doing and trying to accomplish at all times or he'll eat you up.
A dumb dog on the other hand will take longer to train, might not understand what you want him to do in a drill and make the same mistake over and over.
If you're a beginner trainer, a dumb dog isn't necessarily a bad thing. You're going to make mistakes in training (probably more than the dog). A dumb dog allows you to make that mistake without consequence. Make the same mistake with a smart dog and he's just learned the wrong thing. You have to go back, unlearn that mistake and then teach him the right thing to do.
A dumb dog will eventually "get it" and do everything you want. It might just take a little longer...maybe not because he'll be more forgiving of your mistakes.
A dumb dog isn't necessarily a bad thing!
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