Bill McRae

Adjusting Binoculars

outdoorlife-editor — Tue, 18 Sep 2007 12:26:34 -0400

The intrinsic value of a fine binocular lies in its ability to produce bright, sharp, aberration-free images of viewed objects, which can be seen and fully appreciated from a distance only when the binocular's two optical systems are correctly focused. This process is complicated by the fact that, besides making allowances for viewing distance, the binocular must also adjust for abnormalities that might exist in the viewer's eyesight.

Interestingly, about 90 percent of the people who own binoculars don't know how to focus them properly. This is particularly true of center-focus models. Without proper focusing, the best binoculars have no advantage over the worst. The following information will help you get the most from your hunting binocular.

1. Set Eyepiece Spacing

The distances between the pupils of human eyes, called interpupillary distance (IPD), can vary greatly, ranging from about 55mm to 75mm, with the average being 66mm. Begin by holding the binocular in a normal viewing position. Then, while grasping the barrels firmly with your hands, move them
either closer together or farther apart until the images seen by your eyes form a single circular field of view. If the binocular has an IPD scale, note the setting for future reference. In any event, you'll need to readjust when glassing nearby objects. With practice, you'll be doing it automatically in a couple of seconds.

2. Choose Eyecup Height

Adjustable eyecups, which are common on most modern binoculars, serve the dual purpose of excluding
extraneous sidelight and positioning the eye pupils the correct distance from the eyepieces so as to see the
instrument's full field of view. The commonly used types of eyecups
include rubber roll-down, pop-up or twist-up. Normally, the eyecups should be in the "up" position for non-eyeglass wearers and in the "down" position for eyeglass wearers. Conformity aside, they can be positioned to fit your needs, which is
especially easy with modern eyecups that have intermediate positions.

3. Focus the Lenses

There are three major types of
focusing systems: 1) center focus with diopter adjustment; 2) individual focus, in which each eyepiece is focused separately; and 3) fixed focus, which is permanently prefocused for a specific viewing distance.
Center-focusing binoculars are the most common type. Beside the center focusing wheel, there usually is a separate diopter adjustment that serves to compensate for unequal vision that might exist between the viewer's two eyes. The diopter adjustment, which often has a scale showing plus (+) and minus (-) diopter settings on opposite sides of a zero (0) marker, might consist of a focusing ring located on the right eyepiece or it might exist as a cleverly disguised but separate function of the central-focusing system.

Diopters in these positions will
adjust only the right optical system. However, on some models, such as Steiner's center-focus binocular and the majority of zoom-type binoculars, the diopter setting is located on the left eyepiece, where it will adjust only the left optical system.

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4. Focus Non-Diopter Side

Using a lens cover or your hand, cover the objective (front) lens on the side of the binocular that has the diopter setting. Then, using the center-focus wheel, focus the side without the diopter setting on a distant object with fine detail, such as tree branches.

5. Adjust Diopter Setting

While taking care not to change the setting of the center-focus wheel, uncover the objective lens on the diopter side, cover the opposite objective lens, and view the same tree
with your other eye. Then, using the diopter setting, focus on the tree branches until the details sharpen again. At this point, it should appear sharp when viewed with both eyes. If not, you'll need to repeat the process until you get it right. OOnce you've made the proper adjustments, you can focus on targets at any distance simply by turning the center-focus wheel. If there is a diopter scale, note the setting for future reference. With practice, this procedure will become second nature and you'll be doing it from scratch in less than a minute. (Note: If you reverse the procedure and begin by using the diopter setting, you'll never get the focus exactly right.)

6. Focus Both Sides

Because of their ruggedness, simplicity and imperviousness to water, dust and other atmospheric contaminants, individual-focus binoculars have long been favored by military forces around the world. As the name implies, this focusing system is characterized by the fact that each optical system must be adjusted separately by rotating diopter adjustments located on the eyepieces. This can be a nuisance, especially when the user is viewing objects at varying distances.

The focusing procedure is essentially the same as for the diopter adjustment on center-focus binoculars (see step 5), except that it must be done individually for both barrels.

Another difference is that, while
experienced users of center-focus binoculars tend to refocus more or less continually, the users of individual-
focus binoculars tend to adjust them for either intermediate or long ranges and refocus only when it is necessary.

As the name implies, fixed-focus binoculars have no focusing system. Instead, the optics have been permanently pre-focused by the manufacturer at infinity for people having 20/20 vision. Though obviously not for everyone, these binoculars work surprisingly well for young people with normal vision in both eyes or people whose sight has been aided by eyeglasses or contact lenses.

Some owners of fixed-focus binoculars believe that they focus automatically. Rather, it is the focusing ability of the viewer's eyes that causes objects at varying distances to appear sharp.

If you're like most hunters, you own binoculars that must be manually
focused. To do what you require of them, they're the best type.

Focused for Success

outdoorlife-editor — Tue, 18 Sep 2007 12:26:34 -0400

Have you ever looked through a scope expecting to see a crisp, clear scene, only to be greeted by fuzzy crosshairs or the image of an animal so badly out of focus it was hard to tell whether you were looking at a small whitetail deer or a large cottontail rabbit? Or, just as disturbing, have you ever had your scope perfectly on target, only to have the crosshairs move when you shifted your eye slightly off-center from the axis of the scope's eyepiece? If so, welcome to the world of improperly focused telescopic sights, where the severity of such problems can range from inconsequential (low-powered scopes with only eyepiece focusing) to extremely serious (high-powered scopes with both eyepiece and objective-lens focusing). How bad can it get?

Recently, after intentionally using an incorrect focusing procedure on an
impeccably good 3.5-15x50 riflescope with an adjustable objective, I got 10 inches of parallax at a distance of 300 yards and 24 inches at 500 yards. To create such horrendous parallax, all
I did was set the objective-focusing/
parallax adjustment for 50 yards and refocus the image for long-range viewing by using the eyepiece-focusing mechanism. Can such focusing errors occur inadvertently? You bet, and all too easily.

1. When a scope Is
Focused Properly

A correctly focused scope is one in which both the reticle (crosshairs) and the target image appear perfectly sharp-reticle sharpness is the result
of proper eyepiece focusing, whereas target sharpness is the result of proper objective-lens focusing. An incorrectly focused scope is one in which either the reticle or the target image or both appear fuzzy.

All telescopic sights have some means of eyepiece (ocular) focusing, the only legitimate purpose of which is to make the reticle appear sharp to the viewer's eye. Using the eyepiece-focusing mechanism to sharpen the target image (which is possible) will result in the reticle looking blurry. Moreover, eyepiece focusing is incapable of changing either the scope's parallax-free distance or its Point of Aim (POA).

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Types of Eyepiece
Focusing

There are two types of eyepiece focusing: American and European. With American-type eyepieces, a correct focus is achieved by screwing the entire eyepiece housing either backward or forward on fine threads until the
image of the reticle appears perfectly sharp, at which point the housing is
secured in place with a lock ring. The lock ring can be loosened without tools by grasping the eyepiece housing with your hand and rotating it counterclockwise away from the ring.
European-type eyepieces are easier to use but less secure. They are focused by rotating a "fast-focus ring" located at the end of the eyepiece.

3. Why Focus at All?

The first step in eyepiece focusing is to determine if it is needed. Begin by pointing the scope toward a plain background, such as the sky or a light-colored wall. If the reticle appears very sharp and very black, it is properly
focused and no adjustments are necessary. If the reticle looks fuzzy or otherwise indistinct, go to step 5.

4. How To Nail the Focus

With the scope pointed toward a plain background, rotate the focusing adjustment counterclockwise (backward) until the reticle appears to be very unfocused. Then rotate the adjustment clockwise (forward) until the reticle appears perfectly sharp. The reason for starting with the eyepiece in a rearward position and focusing as it is moved forward is to prevent your eye from accommodating (using its own focusing mechanism) as the point of sharpest focus is approached. Even then, you might have to repeat the process once or twice in order to get the focus perfect.

If your scope has only eyepiece focusing, your focusing chores are done-at least until your vision changes or some inconsiderate oaf tampers with the mechanism. But if your scope also has a focusable objective, you must go to the next step.

Regardless of what you call the mechanism that makes it happen, objective focusing and parallax correction are two sides of the same coin. Unlike eyepiece focusing, which should be used only to make the reticle appear sharp, objective focusing simultaneously performs two very important functions: 1) superimposing a perfectly sharp image of the target on the scope's reticle; and 2) eliminating parallax at the target distances you specify.

[pagebreak]
5. Objective Focusing
Adjustments

As was the case with eyepiece focusing, there are two distinct types of objective-focusing systems: the traditional adjustable objective (AO) and
modern side focusing. An adjustable objective consists of a focusing ring located on the scope's objective bell that moves the entire objective lens
assembly either forward or backward so that the image of the target falls precisely on the reticle. A side-focusing adjustment consists of a knob located on the left side of the windage and elevation turret that moves an auxiliary lens back and forth within the scope tube to accomplish the same end. Side focusing is more user-friendly in that the knob is easier to reach from a shooting position.

6. Different Ways,
Same Results

Having identified your scope's objective-focusing mechanism, you now have the option of adjusting the focus either by referring to the yardage/
meter numbers printed on the ring or knob or by directly observing the
target image as it comes into focus. To effectively focus by number, you must determine the correct target distance, preferably with a laser range finder, before aligning the number with the index mark. To focus visually, simply adjust the mechanism until the target image appears perfectly sharp, along with the reticle.

To use scopes with adjustable objectives without focusing, simply set the parallax-free distance at either 100 or 150 yards. This will let you shoot quickly and with sufficient accuracy for big game at any range.

Keep it Clean

There is a right way and a wrong way to clean the lenses of your riflescope.
Start with the proper cleaning materials. You'll need a retractable lens brush, liquid lens cleaner, commercial lens tissues, cotton-tipped applicators and microfiber cloth. These supplies should be stored in a resealable plastic bag when not in use.

Use the lens brush to safely whisk away dirt and dust particles. Apply a small amount of the the cleaning liquid to a lens tissue or cotton-tipped applicator and wipe the lens surfaces using a circular motion, beginning at the center and working toward the edges. For a quick cleaning, simply moisten the lens surfaces by breathing on them.

Dry the lens surfaces by wiping them gently with lens tissues or the dry ends of cotton-tipped applicators-never with a shirt or handkerchief. Finish by polishing the lenses with the microfiber cloth.

Mule Deer: The Ultimate Alpine Game

outdoorlife-editor — Tue, 18 Sep 2007 12:26:24 -0400

Our favorite animals say volumes about what we are, or what we'd like to be. In Montana, where I live, there are lots of horse people-a few of whom are real cowgirls and cowboys. Most, however, are wannabes. Me? I've always been a wannabe Mountain Man, which is how I met my favorite game animal, the mule deer.

As a kid growing up in Wisconsin, I dreamed about running away and living off the land in the hilly woods north of our family farm. My first glimpse of real mountains came in 1953 when, after graduating from high school, I drove west with my older brother to become a structural ironworker in Montana. The Badlands of North Dakota were impressive enough, but it was the snow-capped Rocky Mountains, rising like sheeted ghosts above the plains, that really ignited my imagination. Having hunted since the age of 10 with a .22-caliber rifle that I purchased with money I had earned trapping, I was also intrigued by the herds of fleet-footed antelope and strange-looking deer with big ears that we saw along the way.

Ironwork suited me fine because I love being in high places, and walking narrow steel beams hundreds of feet above the ground was almost like climbing mountains. Two years later, I married a prairie flower named Mary, and by 1957 we made our home in the Rockies raising healthy young Montanans on diets of mule deer and elk meat.

I purchased a 35mm camera and a telephoto lens with the declared intention of selling wildlife photos and hunting stories to the various hunting and shooting magazines, which I read avidly. I was naive but also lucky, because only a year later outdoor life bought two of my photos-one of a mule deer running through a herd of elk and another of running bighorn sheep-which it published with articles written by my hero, the late Jack O'Connor. I was in hog heaven. A few months later, outdoor life published a story I had written about elk hunting. The money from those sales paid for the camera, with enough left over to buy a newfangled electric typewriter, which Mary used to transcribe my handwritten manuscripts. "This is easy and a great way to make a living," I wrongly assumed. But, having been paid for pursuing alpine adventures with gun and camera, I was now a part-time Mountain Man. Fortunately, I didn't quit my day job.

To those who might ask why anyone would pick the often maligned mule deer as their favorite game animal, I'll admit that I came to the choice gradually and grudgingly. My enlightenment was analogous to the guy who, after playing the field, finally realizes that the girl next door is the fairest maiden of them all. Like many western hunters, I took muleys for granted, primarily because they were so plentiful.

Then, one day in the 1970s, while camping with our three teenage sons, it dawned on me (and they agreed) that we'd had more fun hunting mule deer than any other species. A number of years passed, during which I either hunted or photographed most North American big game, before I concluded that, for me at least, the mule deer was best in the West and, arguably, the best on the continent-not because I loved other species less, but because I love mule deer more.

Picking a Favorite

The mule deer's vast domain extends from the Badlands of the Dakotas to the coastal ranges of Washington, Oregon and California, and from subarctic Alberta and British Columbia to northern Mexico. But the ones I know and love best are those that dwell high in the Rocky Mountains, where they epitomize alpine game.

"What about species such as bighorn sheep, mountain goats and elk?" you might ask. As I see it, stalking mule deer is the poor man's equivalent of bighorn sheep hunting. Apart from paying upward of $100,000 for a sheep-hunting permit at a ritzy sportsmen's club auction or drawing a once-in-a-lifetime permit in a state lottery-which I actually did-your chances of hunting bighorn sheep are slim tnil. Moreover, mule deer are the superior game animal: more elusive, more adaptable and noticeably smarter. If bighorns were as smart as mule deer, there would be far more of them.

And mountain goats are even less adaptable or intelligent than sheep. Though I've never seen mule deer traversing sheer cliffs, as only goats can, I have hunted muleys at elevations from which I could look down on goats.

I am so torn between elk and mule deer that when picking a favorite, I must rely on my original criterion of "having fun." Don't misunderstand me; I enjoy elk hunting. But the single word that describes it best is not "fun"; it's "work." Elk are much harder to find-meaning more miles to go and more mountains to climb-and when you finally get one on the ground the hard work really starts. Com-pared with elk, mule deer are easy to carry out.

The most egregious and unsubstantiated charge against mule deer is that they are stupid. It is interesting, however, that those who make the charge seldom take trophy-class bucks. Moreover, if anything, the acid test for intelligence in an animal is its ability to survive and thrive in a wide variety of climates and terrains, as mule deer have.

Here, one is compelled to compare the muley to whitetail deer, which are generally accorded genius status. The fundamental differences between the species result not from deductive reasoning or acquired skills, but from instinctive survival techniques related to their environments. When threatened, whitetails run and hide, which is a remarkably effective defense against rifle-toting hunters. Even the best sharpshooters can't hit what they can't see. Though mule deer are surprisingly good at hiding, their primary escape technique is to run just fast enough and far enough to keep safe distances between themselves and their pursuers. This works very well against four-footed predators and arrow-slinging humans, but not against today's flat-shooting rifles. However, the mule deer seems to be catching on fast.

High Adventure

Though I've taken several trophy bucks, I've never measured the quality of any hunt in terms of antler size. For example, early on the morning of November 12, 1992, outfitter Keith Atcheson, my friend Glen Sapir and I left our vehicle and began walking along the serpentine south rim of Montana's vast and incredibly rugged Missouri River Breaks. Our goal was to relocate a huge mule deer buck that had eluded us the previous evening by disappearing into the labyrinthine canyons of the Breaks. "These deer can climb like mountain goats," Atcheson said. "But with estrous does around, that buck will be back here by morning, and we'll find him."

When legal shooting time arrived, we slipped onto a point overlooking the head of a large draw where the dimly lit mosaic of snow patches and bare ground made game quite hard to see. Soon, movement on the far side of a draw about 200 yards away caught my attention, and, through my 7x50 binoculars, I saw a mule deer doe running to the right and a large buck running uphill to the left. "Good buck, good buck!" Atcheson said. "Take him before he goes over the ridge."

Needing a rest, I quickly laid my daypack on the ground and flopped down beside it. Then, with my right thigh resting squarely on a cactus, I began searching the area through my riflescope.

"The buck is standing broadside on the skyline," said Sapir, who had already taken a buck.

His antlers seemed less imposing than they had appeared through the binoculars, but I attributed that to the lower 4X magnification of my riflescope. Trying to ignore the now searing pain of cactus spines, I put the crosshairs behind the deer's shoulder and carefully squeezed the trigger.

"You shot the doe!" Atcheson said in amazement. "The buck is beside that tree on the skyline. He never even flinched when you shot."

He stood for a few seconds with regal antlers silhouetted against the sky before turning and bounding away. Questions and self-doubts raced through my mind as
we hurried to the spot where, instead of an illegal doe, a mediocre 3x3 buck lay dead on the ground. Like the larger buck that I had first seen and Sapir and Atcheson were fixated on, this one was also on the skyline.

My companions felt terrible about what had happened, but other than feeling a bit stupid, I wasn't bothered by it. It had been a great hunt in magnificent country with fine companions. I had made a clean kill at 250 yards on a deer that would make great table fare. After pulling the last of about 100 cactus spines from my leg, I could even laugh about it.

Today, warning flags are being raised about the mule deer's well-being. Overharvesting by hunters, an overabundance of natural predators, extreme weather and range encroachments by subdivisions have combined to reduce mule deer populations throughout the West. Some doomsayers have all but written the mule deer's obituary. Though the situation is serious, I am convinced that the gray deer's glory days are far from over. Among their many attributes, mule deer multiply very rapidly. With better management by game departments, which is happening, they will flourish again. Besides, what would a Mountain Man do without mule deer?d for a few seconds with regal antlers silhouetted against the sky before turning and bounding away. Questions and self-doubts raced through my mind as
we hurried to the spot where, instead of an illegal doe, a mediocre 3x3 buck lay dead on the ground. Like the larger buck that I had first seen and Sapir and Atcheson were fixated on, this one was also on the skyline.

Hunting Optics 2003

outdoorlife-editor — Mon, 17 Sep 2007 20:00:00 -0400

A binocular should be the number-one item on any hunter's gear list, with the rifle coming in about tenth after such items as a warm sleeping bag and comfortable footwear." So says international hunting consultant Jack Atcheson, and to his statement can be added the fact that without a telescopic sight the modern hunting rifle would lose approximately 90 percent of its long-range and low-light effectiveness. Spotting scopes are somewhat less essential than either binoculars or riflescopes, but they are still extremely useful items, particularly when hunting in vast, open country or when sighting-in.

Given the essentialness of hunting optics, our goal here is to provide you with the results of a series of product tests that are both meaningful and
objective. Most of the items our panel evaluated were production models,
although some (as noted in the charts) were advanced prototypes with rough spots that manufacturers were still in the process of ironing out.

Though meaningful, the "Editor's Choice" designations should not be your sole consideration when choosing personal hunting optics. For example, when looking over the test results, you'll note that the instruments that garnered the highest ratings, including all but one of the Editor's Choices, tended to be those with oversized
objective lenses. (The exception was in compact binoculars, which were judged separately.)

The inescapable truth is that instruments with larger objective (front) lenses tend to be optically superior:
1) because larger lenses gather more of the available light, based on their relative surface areas, which, other factors being equal,
results in brighter images; and
2) because they are innately
capable of producing sharper images through better resolution. The greater light-gathering capacity of a larger lens is analogous to accumulating more rainwater by switching to a larger pan size-increase the pan's diameter and you increase exponentially the amount of
water you're able to collect.

The reason larger objectives produce sharper images-doubling the objective diameter doubles the theoretical resolution-is too complicated to explain here, but decades of optics testing have shown me that the principle works
unerringly well.

Also dominating the ratings were those instruments with higher magnifications. This was particularly true of binoculars for which we couldn't level the playing field by using identical powers during the low-light performance tests. (See "How We Test
Optics," opposite page) The caveats regarding larger objectives and higher magnifications are: 1) instruments with oversized objective lenses tend to be very big and heavy; and 2) those with higher magnifications tend to have narrower fields of view and are much harder to hold steady.

In any event, it is important to study the tables in their entirety, paying particular attention to the attributes that are most apt to affect your hunting style. These include exit-pupil diameter, size, weight, field of view, eye relief and, of course, low-light performance and resolution. Choosing the right hunting optic usually involves compromises.

It's also important to remember that what we are reporting here is how
individual products performed under specific tests on a given day. Some of these models are prototypes. Once many of these new models are in full production, products you purchase may perform better or they may not. That is why it's important to compare both brands and individual products by the same maker before you buy.

We are frequently asked whether premium-quality optics, costing anywhere from about $800 to $2,000, are actually that much better than otherwise-similar low-priced optics, costing from $80 to about $500. There are no definitive answers, but the first rule is that you tend to get what you pay for, which isn't to say that certain items aren't either grossly overpriced or outstaing bargains. Hopefully, our "Great Buy" designations and price-value ratings will provide some much-needed guidance.

When explaining the difference between price and value, investment guru Warren Buffett once said, "Price is what you pay. Value is what you get." When paying more for optics, the values that you have a right to expect include better optical performance, better materials, better workmanship, more stringent quality controls, greater durability, first-rate customer service and no-nonsense warranties. The second rule is that smart shoppers seldom pay the manufacturer's suggested retail price for anything. It pays to shop around!

How We Test Optics

As always, our goal was to evaluate each instrument with the utmost objectivity, which meant setting aside personal preferences and prejudices, particularly regarding brand names and national origins. Sport optics have many uses, but our primary focus remained, as always, on hunting. Quantifiable characteristics, such as length, weight, eye relief, resolution, etc., were measured precisely. Resolution, for example, which is the keystone of optical performance, was measured in seconds of angle using a USAF 1951 Resolving Power Test Target. And, to compensate for the deficiencies of human
vision, a 3X auxiliary telescope was used behind the instrument's eyepiece, thereby tripling the magnification.

Low-Light Tests

The low-light performance tests, which we believe accurately duplicate real hunting conditions, were conducted in natural evening light at a distance of 100 yards. The target-a 10-inch-diameter disk covered with alternating inch-wide black-and-gray stripes-was rotated every few seconds (keeping the tester's eyes honest) to determine how many minutes after sunset the orientation of the lines remained visible. The caveat here is that although the rankings would remain similar on other evenings under different lighting conditions (changes in sky light, location, time of year, etc.), the minutes of visibility after sunset would, no doubt, change considerably. In other words, it is a great test for side-by-side comparisons under specific but non-repeatable circumstances.

Leveling the Field

To eliminate the often-misleading
effects of higher magnifications (which can reveal smaller details in low light while simultaneously reducing the intrinsic brightness), all spotting scopes were tested at 20X. Likewise, whenever possible all riflescopes were tested at 6X, the sole exception being the Sightron SII 36x42 BRD. The binoculars were, of course, tested at their existing magnifications, except for the Leica Duovid, which was tested both at 10X and 15X.

Tracking and POA Shifts

Riflescopes engender additional concerns, arising from the fact that their primary purpose is to serve as precision aiming devices. The primary factors here are tracking and point-of-aim (POA) shift, which are combined in one rating. Tracking refers to a scope's ability to respond with repeatable accuracy to changes in the windage and elevation adjustments. Accordingly, 40 clicks on a scope having 1/4 minute of angle (MOA) increments should move the crosshairs 10 inches on a 100-yard target. POA shift refers to unwanted changes in the scope's point of aim that can occur during power changing or parallax adjustments. POA shifts of less than 1/2 MOA are considered good for scopes used on big game. Both tracking and POA shifts were measured with a precise collimator of the type used by scope manufacturers.

Other evaluations, such as ergonomics, aesthetics, applicability and price-value ratings, are less scientific in that they reflect the opinions and tastes of the testers. To better understand the testing procedures and optical jargon, see the optics glossary at [XLINK "Gear"].

Scoring Products

Finally, each product was scored independently by every member of our test panel, using a 100-point scale. Scores for each instrument were then averaged to reach its final score. To keep the test team as objective as possible, panelists were not permitted to discuss any products being tested until after all scores and written comments had been turned in. All products were promptly returned to the manufacturers upon completion of our tests.

BINOCULARS
(Full-Sized)

Looking for trends in this year's array of binoculars and noting that four of the nine full-sized models had magnifications of above 10X, we hastily concluded that it was simply a further sign of the American hunter's insatiable lust for higher powers in almost everything. That may be true, except there's nothing new about high-powered binoculars. Proof is seen in the 1931 Carl Zeiss catalog of "field glasses," which, together with the standard power/
objective configurations, also featured 12x50, 16x50 and 18x50 models. So, instead of breaking new ground, we may simply be witnessing the natural proliferation of models that occurs as existing binocular series mature.

Typically, a new series begins with 8X and 10X full-size models, which are the most popular. The next models introduced will usually be similar-powered compacts, and finally, assuming the series is successful, there will be 12X, 15X or perhaps even 20X models. Then, after an existing series has run its course, a new series will start the process all over again. (New models are, after all, the lifeblood of the sporting-goods industry.)

Exemplifying the start-over phase is Brunton's new high-end Epoch series, which begins with the 7.5x43 (tested) and 10.5x43 models. The Epoch's notable features include variable-speed focusing, near focusing to 36 inches, FogGuard anti-fog lens coating, long eye relief with locking multistep twist-up eyecups, a 2X extender and a super-tough Pelican hard case. Also new and very promising is Steiner's Peregrine series, which premieres with 8x42 (tested) and 10x42 models. As the name Peregrine implies, it is intended for birdwatchers, who, if anything, are more sophisticated about optics than hunters are. The Leica Duovid 10+15x50 is a more powerful version of the Duovid 8+12x42, which was the 2002 Editor's Choice.

BINOCULARS
(Compacts)

Many of today's compact binoculars are astoundingly good, but why give them a separate category? For the same reason that Coues deer get special recognition by the Boone and Crockett Club. Namely, because no matter how good they are, they simply can't compete with their overgrown cousins.

Should compacts be thought of as serious hunting binoculars? A critical study of the test results should answer that question. Their resolutions, though not equal to those of full-sized models, were in all cases considerably better than the visual acuity of average human eyes (60 seconds of angle) est panel, using a 100-point scale. Scores for each instrument were then averaged to reach its final score. To keep the test team as objective as possible, panelists were not permitted to discuss any products being tested until after all scores and written comments had been turned in. All products were promptly returned to the manufacturers upon completion of our tests.

BINOCULARS
(Full-Sized)

Hunting Optics 2003 - Glossary

outdoorlife-editor — Mon, 17 Sep 2007 20:00:00 -0400

Magnification: Also called power, magnification is the extent to which objects appear larger when viewed through optical instruments. It is expressed by the number (or numbers) proceeding the "X" in specification numbers. An 8x32 binocular makes objects appear eight times larger.

Objective lens: The front lenses of optical instruments that receive light from viewed objects and forms the first or primary image, which is then magnified by the eyepiece. The number following the "X" in specification numbers is the objective lens diameter in millimeters. Accordingly, an 8x32 binocular has 32mm objective lenses.

Diopter adjustment: A device generally located either on the right eyepiece or as separate function of the central-focusing system of binoculars, used to correct for visual differences between the viewer's eyes.

Exit pupil: The small circle of light that can be seen behind the eyepiece when an optical instrument is held at arm's length and pointed toward a bright background. It is located at the point where the eye must be placed to see the full field of view (FOV). Exit-pupil diameters are calculated by dividing the objective lens diameter in millimeters by the magnification number. Therefore, a 10x50 binocular has 5mm exit pupils (50 ÃƒÂ· 10 = 5).

Eye relief: Shown in parentheses in the test tables, eye relief is the distance in millimeters between the eyepiece lens and the exit pupil, where the eye must be placed to see the full FOV. An eye relief of about 20mm is needed to enable eyeglass wearers to see a full FOV. Eye relief for telescopic sights is measured in inches, with 3 inches the minimum for hard-kicking firearms.

Field of view (FOV): The maximum area that can be seen through an optical instrument.

Flare/aberrations: Flare is the scattering of non-image forming light within an optical system, which appears as stray reflections, ghost images or a veiling glare that obscures details. Aberrations are optical defects that degrade image quality. These include: Astigmatism, Chromatic Aberration, Coma, Curvature of Field, Distortion and Spherical Aberation.

Minute of angle (MOA): A unit of angular measurement equal to 1/60th of a degree, which fortuitously subtends 1 inch (actually 1.047") at 100 yards, 2 inches at 200 yards, and so forth.

Second of angle (SOA): A unit of angular measurement equal to 1/60th of a minute of angle or 1/3600th of a degree, which subtends .01745 inches at 100 yards.

Optical coatings: Thin layers of various materials applied to lenses and/or prisms to improve optical performance.

Antireflection (AR) coatings: Used to reduce reflections from glass-to-air surfaces, thereby, reducing flare and improving light transmission. Better instruments have multilayer coatings on all surfaces, and are referred to as being "fully multicoated."

Phase-correction (P) coatings: Used on the roof surfaces of roof prisms to reduce the image-degrading phase interferences that occur when light waves from the opposite roof surfaces combine to form images. P-coating is not needed on Porro prisms.

Resolution: The ability of an optical system to produce separate and distinct images of two closely spaced objects, such as the points on a deer's antlers. We measured resolution in seconds of angle (SOA) using a USAF Resolving Power Test Target, consisting of progressively smaller sets of black lines on a gray background.

Twilight factor: A mathematical formula for comparing the low-light performance of optical instruments, which takes magnification into account. To calculate twilight factor multiply the diameter of the objective lens by the magnification and extract the square root of the product. We suggest using a handheld calculator with a square root function key.

For Riflescopes Only

Mounting length: The maximum length of a scope's main tube to which mounting rings can be attached. For easy mounting on full-length bolt-action rifles this area should be at least 5 inches long.

Parallax: A condition that exists when the image of the target (the location of which varies axially with the viewing distance) and the image of the reticle are on different focal planes. When parallax is present, you'll notice an obvious shift in the target laterally relative to the reticle as the eye is moved from side to side.

Parallax/focusing adjustment: This adjustment, consisting of a ring on the scope's objective bell (AO) or as a knob on the left side of the W/E turret, eliminates parallax and simultaneously focuses the image for distances ranging from about 10 yards to infinity.

Point of aim (POA) Shift: Also called "track-out," this is an insidious condition, peculiar to variable-power scopes, in which the POA shifts during power changing.

Tracking: A riflescope's ability to respond precisely to changes in the windage and elevation (W/E) adjustments.

[XLINK 462021 "Back to Hunting Optics 2003"]

Optics Test 2006

outdoorlife-editor — Wed, 31 May 2006 20:00:00 -0400

Every year, as wesearch for the perfect location for our optics tests, we consider severalthings. First, the site needs to be outdoorsy, with habitat that ranges fromnatural woodlands to sweeping vistas. Next, there has to be plenty of glassablewildlife. And finally, the site must provide old-fashioned twilight, where dayslides into night without the visual interference of headlights or city lightpollution. We even try to limit lunar light by scheduling the tests during thedark of the moon.

For our 2006 test,we found that perfect location high in the Tehachapi Mountains on the TejonRanch, situated within easy driving distance of Los Angeles (661-248-3000;hunttejon.com). Not only was the setting spectacular and remote, but thewildlife there was so abundant that as one team member compared binoculars byidentifying acorn woodpeckers and dark-eyed juncos in nearby trees, anothertested spotting scopes by glassing mule deer, elk and wild boars onmountainsides two miles away. What more could you ask for?

Why We Test What We Test

Last fall at elkcamp I was asked by a faithful OUTDOOR LIFE reader—the kind who clips and savesthe optics gear test, God love him—why a certain manufacturer's binocularsweren't in the 2005 tests. The simple answer is that the tests are restrictedto either brand-new or significantly improved products, and the manufacturer inquestion hadn't introduced any products that qualified.

We're also oftenasked why we haven't included certain new products that other magazines havewritten glowingly about months or even years earlier. Well, like overly excitedexpectant parents, some companies send out birth announcements (i.e., pressreleases) long before the hyped optics actually exist. Unfortunately, wehaven't yet figured out how to field-test products that are little more than agleam in some optical engineer's eyes.

On the DarkSide

Our most populartest, both with team members and readers, has always been low-light performance—no doubt because the ability to see game at dawn or dusk or in deep shadowoften means the difference between hunting success and failure. This test isconducted in late-evening light. A circular contrast target with alternatinginch-wide black and gray lines is placed 100 yards away in natural habitat. Tokeep our eyes honest, the target is rotated every few seconds, which changesthe orientation of the lines. The binoculars, spotting scopes and riflescopesare rated on how many minutes after sunset the orientation of the lines can beseen.

The results haveconsistently shown that low-light performance is determined by a combination offactors. The first is light transmission, defined as the usable (image-forming)light that makes it all the way through an optical system relative to theamount that enters—90 percent is very good. Second is the geometriclight-gathering power of the objective (front) lens, calculated as the squareof the objective's diameter. And third is the instrument's magnifying power,which plays a role because of the simple fact that larger-appearing objects areeasier to see in low light.

In accordance withthe above, our tests have shown: (1) When instruments with nearly identicalmagnification and objective sizes, such as 8x40 and 8x42, are tested side byside, the one with the most light transmission performs better; (2) wheninstruments with similar magnifications and light transmissions are tested, theone with the largest objective diameter performs better; and (3) wheninstruments with similar light transmissions and objective diameters aretested, the one with the highest magnification performs better. However, whenoptics with a mix of those characteristics are tested side by side, we're neversure how things will turn out.

Full-SizeBinoculars

If you're in themarket for a serious hunting binocular, this is the broad category from whichyou should choose. Though not all configurations were represented in thisyear's selection of 15 models, full-size binoculars (defined as binoculars withobjective lenses of 30mm or larger) can vary in magnification anywhere from 6Xto about 16X, with objective diameters as large as 60mm. Prices, determined bymanufacturing costs and whatever the market will bear, can range from less than$100 to more than $2,000. Not surprisingly, the optical and mechanical qualityof such binoculars also varies greatly.

Our advice is thatno one should ever go hunting without a binocular, and that when you're buyingone, you should get the best you can afford. Even the most lowborn binocular isa thousand times better than no binocular at all. Concerning this year'sbinocular lineup, nothing that rated less than "good" was included, andthough we each had favorites, we'd be happy to go hunting with any one ofthem.

Standouts: Apartfrom the Editor's Choice and the Great Buy, several binoculars performed verywell. Among these was the Meopta 10x50, which had superb image quality andoutlasted the Leica 8x56 by a half minute in the low-light test—probablybecause of its higher magnification. Other standouts were Cabela's Euro 10x42,Leupold's Golden Ring 8x32, Steiner's Peregrine 8.5x50, Weaver's Grand Slam10x42 and the Zeiss Conquest 8x40.

Lens coatings: It'snoteworthy that all the fullsize binoculars tested had roof prisms, which isn'tto say that Porro-prism binoculars, with their dog-legged configurations,aren't still excellent choices. The costly truth is that for roof-prismbinoculars to match the image quality and brightness of otherwise equalPorro-prism models, they must have special high-tech coatings on their prismsurfaces. Not to be confused with antireflection coatings, which reduce lightloss due to reflections on air-to-glass lens surfaces, these special prismcoatings include phase-correction (also called P-coatings) and high-reflectiondielectric coatings.

P-coatings: Withoutgetting too technical, Pcoatings are used on the roof surfaces of bothAbbe-Koenig and Schmidt Pechan roof prisms to correct image-degrading waveinterference that occurs when light waves, reflecting off the opposing roofsurfaces, combine to form images.

High-reflectiondielectric coatings: Sometimes referred to by proprietary names such asHighLux, Swarobright, etc., these replace metallic (aluminum or silver) mirrorson one specific surface of the widely used Schmidt Pechan prisms where between4 percent and 6 percent of the available light is lost to absorption whilebeing reflected. Such dielectric coatings reduce this light loss to as littleas 0.2 percent. Though initially limited to highend binoculars, the use of bothof these coatings is rapidly spreading to midlevel roof-prism binoculars.

CompactBinoculars

Though less thanideal for hunting purposes, compact binoculars (those having objective lensessmaller than 30mm) are currently used by an astounding number of hunters,evidently with satisfaction. Two probable reasons are price and portability:Compacts are much less expensive than their full-size counterparts, and beingsmall and lightweight, they are wonderfully convenient to carry in the field.Besides, who can deny that a compact binocular in the hand or vest pocket isn'tinfinitely better than a full-size binocular that has been left at home or in ahunting vehicle?

The primarycomplaint against compact binoculars is that their small objective lenses,ranging from about 20mm to 28mm in diameter, don't gather enough light to befully effective on animals active in low-light times, such as deer, elk andbears. Interestingly, none of the compacts in this year's low-light performancetest winked out until 30 minutes after sunset, which is the end of legalshooting time just about anywhere you might hunt.

This wasn't abanner year in terms of the number of compacts tested. Perhaps there werealready so many on the market that manufacturers decided to turn their creativeenergies elsewhere. Or perhaps it was part of the natural ebb and flow thatoccurs in the optics world, a world in which it takes at least a couple ofyears to design and bring to market a noteworthy new product. Notwithstanding,we found things to get excited about in this year's crop of new and improvedcompact binoculars.

Spotting Scopes

The spotting scopeis like the stepchild of the optics family—if someone has to stay home whilethe rest of the clan goes hunting, it's the one. And even when it does get toride along, it's often left sitting in a vehicle or at the bottom of someone'shunting pack. That's because spotting scopes tend to be so big and heavythey're impractical to carry in the field. Fortunately, that started changingin 2003, when Leupold introduced its pocket-size Golden Ring 10--20x40 compactspotting scope, which measures just 7.5 inches long and weighs a trivial 15.8ounces. The real surprise was that despite its small 40mm objective, the opticswere sharp enough to satisfy the long-range glassing needs of most hunters.

Now, fast-forwardto the 2006 optics test, where two wonderfully petite compacts with 50mmobjective lenses stole the spotlight from their bulkier brethren. These werethe 11-inch, 21.5-ounce Leupold Golden Ring 15--30x50 Compact and the 8.2-inch,19.8-ounce Nikon Fieldscope ED with interchangeable eyepieces.

But lest we get toocarried away with the virtues of pint-sized optics, the 17.5-inch, 50-ounceMeopta Meostar APO HS75 spotting scope, with its 75mm objective and 20--60Xeyepiece, outlasted all other optics, regardless of type, in the low-lightperformance tests by revealing target details until 54 minutes after sunset.Not surprisingly, the Meopta Meostar also had the best daylight resolution,resolving details as small as 1.5 seconds of angle. That's equivalent to .026inches at 100 yards. Such outstanding image brightness and sharpness areattributable to its large apochromatic (APO) 75mm objective lens."Apochromatic" signifies that image-degrading chromatic aberrations(color distortions) have been virtually eliminated.

Riflescopes

Of the three typesof sports optics—binoculars, spotting scopes and riflescopes—riflescopes are byfar the most complex. That's because their two functions—as vision enhancersand ultraprecise aiming devices—must be harmoniously combined to make themfully compatible with the firearms on which they are mounted. Thoughriflescopes present more potential problems, the happy challenge for opticalengineers is that they also present more opportunities for innovativesolutions. That brings us to the 2006 crop of riflescopes, where creativesolutions to vexing problems, real or imagined, were the order of things. Therewere, in fact, so many innovations that the few riflescopes that had none wereuncharitably characterized by some of my fellow testers as plain Janes, whichis alright with a common Joe like me.

Of the variousinnovations, the low-mounting capability of Leupold's VX-L was everybody'sfavorite. Here the engineer's inventiveness is manifested in a crescent-shapedcutout on the bottom of the riflescope's objective lens, which allows modelswith 50mm and 56mm objectives to be mounted as low as conventional scopes with36mm and 40mm objectives, respectively. By positioning the scope's axis closerto the barrel, the large objective housing is much less obtrusive and theshooter's eye can be more conveniently aligned. The result is a brighter imageand improved accuracy.

Having failed toget a fully functional Kahles with MultiZero bullet-drop compensation (BDC) in2005, we belatedly included a Kahles Helia CL 3--10x50 with MultiZero thisyear, and it got high ratings in every category—especially in low-lightperformance. It exceeded our expectations, first, by being easier to adjustthan we'd expected, and second, by repeatedly tracking between the various zerosettings with no change in the points-of-aim. It eliminated any prejudices thatwe might have had about dial-based bullet-drop compensation. And unlikereticle-based BDCs, MultiZero can be used with any cartridge, regardless ofbullet weight, shape, velocity or trajectory.

Illuminatedreticles are in vogue these days, but an ugly characteristic of most suchsystems is the battery/rheostat housing. Typically, it is perched atop thescope's eyepiece assembly, where, besides spoiling the profile of an otherwisehandsome instrument, it can snag on anything from underbrush to your huntingclothes. Both Swarovski and Trijicon have greatly mitigated this shortcoming.Swarovski did so with its unique BE 4 Digital Illuminated Reticle—which wetested on a Habicht PVI-2 2.5--10x56 riflescope—by removing the housing fromthe eyepiece assembly and attaching it to the threads on theelevation-adjustment turret, where it can be easily removed if desired.Trijicon went even further with its AccuPoint illuminated reticles byeliminating the need for either batteries or rheostats. You control how muchlight enters the reticle by opening and closing an adjustable hood positionedover light-gathering fiber optics.

TEST CHARTSEXPLAINED How the Rankings Work

FINAL SCORE: F - G- VG - E [Fair - Good - Very Good - Excellent]

THERMOMETER SCALE:This shows the product's final score, which is the average of its low-lightperformance, image quality, design and price/value scores. Extra weight isgiven to performance.

Excellent: **** Very Good: *** Good: ** Fair: *

STAR SYSTEM: Starsgiven for performance/design aspects represent a range of possible scores. Soan optical instrument that earned four stars in low-light performance, forexample, scored anywhere from 90 to 100 points in that category.

TESTERS' COMMENTS:Please note that all comments about products are individual opinions and arenot necessarily shared by the entire panel. Many times our testers disagree,which is why we average their scores.

FULL-SIZEBINOCULARS ALPEN TRAIL-TECH 8X42

FINAL SCORE: F [G]VG E

Retail: $180 Image Quality: ** Low-Light Performance: ** Design: ** Price/Value: ** 877-987-8379; alpenoutdoor.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Compass,thermometer, etc., may appeal to some â¿ª Noticeable distortion of image at edges

BRUNTON EPOCH ZOOM8--15X35

FINAL SCORE: F [G]VG E

Retail: $1,899 Image Quality: *** Low-Light Performance: *** Design: ** Price/Value: * 800-443-4871; brunton.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Nice indexedeyecups â¿ª As good as zoom binoculars get â¿ª Feels very solid in hand

CABELA'S EURO10X42

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $800 Image Quality: *** Low-Light Performance: **** Design: *** Price/Value: *** 800-237-4444; cabelas.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Nice balance andhand fit â¿ª European quality at a reasonable price

CARSON XM 8X42

FINAL SCORE: F [G]VG E

Retail: $300 Image Quality: ** Low-Light Performance: **** Design: ** Price/Value: ** 800-967-8427; carson-optical.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Good optics forthe price â¿ª Lost points for its so-so workmanship â¿ª Very lightweight

KOWA DCF CAMO10X42

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $620 Image Quality: *** Low-Light Performance: **** Design: *** Price/Value: *** 310-327-1913; kowa-usa.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Excellentmulti-position eyecups â¿ª Image contrast not great â¿ª Solid design for hunters

LEUPOLD GOLDENRING 8X32

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $900 Image Quality: *** Low-Light Performance: *** Design: **** Price/Value: *** 800-929-4949; leupold.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Feels great inhand, very bright image â¿ª Excellent workmanship, well designed

MEOPTA 10X50

FINAL SCORE: F GVG [E]

Retail: $1,079 Image Quality: **** Low-Light Performance: **** Design: **** Price/Value: *** 866-789-0555; meopta.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Niceedge-to-edge clarity â¿ª Eyecups are a bit too loose â¿ª The best lowlight performer

NIKON MONARCH8X36

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $250 Image Quality: ** Low-Light Performance: *** Design: *** Price/Value: *** 800-645-6698; nikonsportoptics.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Perfect size andweight for all-day hunting â¿ª Focus is a little sloppy, expected more for the money

NRA 10X42

FINAL SCORE: F [G]VG E

Retail: $229 Image Quality: ** Low-Light Performance: ** Design: ** Price/Value: *** 307-857-4700; nrasportsoptics.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Thumb grooves anice feature â¿ª Very compact and lightweight for a 10X42 binocular

STEINER PEREGRINE8.5X50

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $999 Image Quality: **** Low-Light Performance: **** Design: *** Price/Value: *** 800-257-7742; steiner-binoculars.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Eyecups do agood job of sealing out peripheral light â¿ª Delivers a good image

SWIFT EAGLET7X36

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $430 Image Quality: *** Low-Light Performance: *** Design: ** Price/Value: *** 800-523-4544; swiftoptics.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª I like theclicking diopter focus â¿ª A very useful and surprisingly compact binocular

WEAVER GRAND SLAM10X42

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $699 Image Quality: **** Low-Light Performance: *** Design: *** Price/Value: *** 800-285-0689; weaveroptics.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Nice feel andbalance, a bit heavy â¿ª Clearly built for hard use â¿ª Great snapup eyecups

ZEISS CONQUEST8X40

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $1,000 Image Quality: *** Low-Light Performance: **** Design: *** Price/Value: *** 800-441-3005; zeiss.com/sports

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Greatergonomics, beautiful design â¿ª Gives a nice, warm, true image

COMPACTBINOCULARS BUSHNELL TROPHY 8X27

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $80 Image Quality: ** Low-Light Performance: ** Design: ** Price/Value: *** 800-423-3537; bushnell.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª A very good buyfor the price â¿ª Durable armor coating â¿ª Decent image quality

CARSON NOSHOCK10X25

FINAL SCORE: F [G]VG E

Retail: $99 Image Quality: * Low-Light Performance: ** Design: ** Price/Value: ** 800-967-8427; carson-optical.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Very sloppyfocus adjustments â¿ª Poor clarity â¿ª Only center 20 percent of image is crisp

NIKON PROSTAFF10X25

FINAL SCORE: F [G]VG E

Retail: $191 Image Quality: ** Low-Light Performance: ** Design: ** Price/Value: ** 800-645-6698; nikonsportoptics.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Like diopter'smicro-click adjustments â¿ª Doesn't fold into a very compact package

SPOTTING SCOPES CELESTRON ULTIMA 60SV 20--60X60

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $249 Image Quality: ** Low-Light Performance: **** Design: ** Price/Value: *** 310-328-9560; celestron.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Image qualityso-so, but good for the price â¿ª Adjustable eyepiece angle is good for field and range use

MEOPTA MEOSTAR APOHS75 WITH 20--60X EYEPIECE

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $1,358 Image Quality: **** Low-Light Performance: **** Design: *** Price/Value: *** 866-789-0555; meopta.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Big and bright,easy to use, but heavy â¿ª Like the mid-barrel focus â¿ª A great truck scope

SIMMONS MASTER15--45X60

FINAL SCORE: F [G]VG E

Retail: $381 Image Quality: ** Low-Light Performance: *** Design: ** Price/Value: ** 800-285-0689; simmonsoptics.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Not bad for theprice â¿ª Scope has serious color aberrations â¿ª Fatiguing on my eye

RIFLESCOPES BURRIS 3--10X40 SIGNATURE SELECT LRS BALLISTIC PLEX ILLUMINATED RETICLE

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $549 Image Quality: **** Low-Light Performance: *** Design: *** Price/Value: *** 888-228-7747; burrisoptics.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Best resolutionof any scope tested â¿ª Adjustment knobs need to have numbers put on them

BUSHNELL ELITE3200 3--9X40 WITH BALLISTIC RETICLE

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $397 Image Quality: ** Low-Light Performance: *** Design: ** Price/Value: *** 800-423-3537; bushnell.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª RainGuardcoating is a nice feature â¿ª Needs easy-to-grip control knobs

KAHLES HELIA CL3--10X50 WITH MULTIZERO

FINAL SCORE: F GVG [E]

Retail: $799 Image Quality: **** Low-Light Performance: **** Design: **** Price/Value: *** 866-606-8779; kahlesoptik.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª MultiZero worksgreat â¿ª Easy to use and adjust â¿ª Did well in low-light tests

NRA 3.5--10X50

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $249 Image Quality: * Low-Light Performance: **** Design: ** Price/Value: ** 307-857-4700; nrasportsoptics.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª There are betterbudget options out there; not a great value â¿ª Its looks are uninspiring

SIMMONS PROHUNTER3--9X40 WA

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $150 Image Quality: *** Low-Light Performance: **** Design: *** Price/Value: *** 800-285-0689; simmonsoptics.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª A good scope forcash-strapped hunters â¿ª Some distortion at edges

SWAROVSKI PVI-22.5--10X56-L-4-1

FINAL SCORE: F GVG [E]

Retail: $2,049 Image Quality: **** Low-Light Performance: **** Design: **** Price/Value: ** 800-426-3089; swarovskioptik.at

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª A truly greatilluminated reticle â¿ª Excellent workmanship, but you pay the price

SWIFT SR2.5--10X50

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $220 Image Quality: ** Low-Light Performance: **** Design: ** Price/Value: ** 800-523-4544; swiftoptics.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª A good value fora budget varmint scope â¿ª Not a particularly sleek design

TRIJICON ACCUPOINT3--9X40

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $699 Image Quality: *** Low-Light Performance: **** Design: *** Price/Value: ** 800-338-0563; trijicon.com

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Love thebattery-free illuminated reticle â¿ª Great for low-light hunts

ZEISS VICTORY2.5--10X42 T

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $1,664 Image Quality: **** Low-Light Performance: *** Design: **** Price/Value: ** 800-441-3005; zeiss.com/sports

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Crisp imageacross full range of magnification â¿ª Like the positive click adjustments

OUTDOOR LIFEEDITOR'S CHOICE 2006

LEICA GEOVID 8X56BRF

FINAL SCORE: F GVG [E]

Retail: $2,445 Image Quality: **** Low-Light Performance: **** Design: **** Price/Value: *** 800-222-0118; leica-camera.com/usa

Some mightconclude that the Leica Geovid 8x56 received the prestigious Editor's Choiceaward because of its integral laser range finder. Perhaps, but we remainconvinced that even without its remarkable range-finding capabilities, thisbinocular would have gotten top honors based solely on its outstanding optical,mechanical and design attributes. It garnered the highest rating in the designand image quality categories, and even though it was outlasted by the tiniestof margins in low-light performance by a glass with 25 percent moremagnification, it obviously had the brightest image in terms of lighttransmission of any binocular tested.

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª A certainwinner, even without the range finder â¿ª Range finder feature is very useful â¿ª Heavy for all-day carry â¿ª Expensive

OUTDOOR LIFE GREATBUY 2006

BUSHNELL LEGEND10X42

FINAL SCORE: F GVG [E]

Retail: $440 Image Quality: **** Low-Light Performance: **** Design: *** Price/Value: **** 800-423-3537; bushnell.com

This user-friendlyBushnell Legend 10x42 binocular comes under the heading of "significantlyimproved products." It is slimmer, trimmer and 20 percent lighter (at 24.9ounces) thanks to its redesigned armoring and new magnesium chassis. Otherfeatures include improved twist-up eyecups, locking diopter adjustments,Bushnell's Rainguard lens coating, fully multicoated optics, phase-correctedBaK-4 roof prisms and waterproof construction. As for image quality, afterseveral hours of glassing, your eyes will tell you, as ours told us, that thisbinocular is truly a great buy.

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª A very goodbinocular at a great price â¿ª Controls very easy to use â¿ª Feels light in your hand â¿ª Bright, crisp image

OUTDOOR LIFEEDITOR'S CHOICE 2006

ZEISS VICTORY 8X20B T*

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $455 Image Quality: **** Low-Light Performance: ** Design: **** Price/Value: **** 800-441-3005; zeiss.com/sports

It's easy to see,both literally and figuratively, why this wonderfully petite Zeiss compact wasthe Editor's Choice. Compared with the other compacts tested, its superlativesincluded smallest dimensions, 3.7 by 3 by 1.8 inches when folded; lightestweight at 7.9 ounces; widest apparent field of view; sharpest resolution;brightest image; and highest cost. You get what you pay for. Considering thatthe Victory 8x20 looks exactly like its predecessor, you might ask, what's newabout it? Primarily, Zeiss's proprietary dielectric mirror coating—firstintroduced in its midsize Victory 32 FL binoculars—has been applied to theSchmidt Pechan prisms used in this model, resulting in significantly improvedlight transmission and outstanding image contrast and brightness.

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª The ultimateshirt-pocket binocular â¿ª Floats in your hand â¿ª Wish focus wheel was a bit bigger â¿ª Clever design, great clarity

OUTDOOR LIFE GREATBUY 2006

STEINER MERLIN8X24

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $239 Image Quality: **** Low-Light Performance: ** Design: **** Price/Value: **** 800-257-7742; steiner-binoculars.com

Though a longtimeproducer of rough-and-tumble optics for military and sporting uses, Steiner, inrecent years, has reached out to the bird-watching community, among whom thereare legions of discriminating binocular users, with product lines featuringhigh-class glass. Hence the moniker Merlin (a small, fast falcon) for thisbinocular. Regardless of what it's called, this compact fits equally well inthe hands or shirt pockets of both bird-watchers and serious hunters. We on theOUTDOOR LIFE test team are equally proud to be classified as eitherbird-watchers or serious hunters. However, anyone who doesn't appreciate thebird-watching connotation can just tell his hunting buddies that his binos werenamed after the wizard Merlin of King Arthur's court.

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Ideal fortree-stand hunting â¿ª Focuses quickly, though the knob is a bit small â¿ª Fits very well in hand

OUTDOOR LIFEEDITOR'S CHOICE 2006

NIKON FIELDSCOPE50MM ED

FINAL SCORE: F GVG [E]

Retail: $700 Image Quality: **** Low-Light Performance: ** Design: **** Price/Value: **** 800-645-6698; nikonsportoptics.com

As the newest andtiniest addition to Nikon's family of Fieldscopes featuring ED (extra-lowdispersion) glass, this 50mm version is far more than a cute baby. It is, infact, everything that a hardworking hunting telescope should be: bright, razorsharp, color correct, flare free and, with its 8.2-inch length and 19.8-ounceweight, easily stowed and wonderfully totable.

It's abackpacker's dream for viewing anything from wild sheep on distantmountainsides to butterflies on nearby flowers. Thanks to Nikon's optionalDigiScope system, you can switch from conventional viewing to takingastoundingly sharp digital images in less than one minute. In a stopwatch-timedtest, I did it in just 19 seconds.

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Phenomenal imagequality—wow! â¿ª Could look through this scope all day â¿ª Handy size and weight

OUTDOOR LIFE GREATBUY 2006

LEUPOLD GOLDENRING 15--30X50 COMPACT

FINAL SCORE: F G[VG] E

Retail: $499 Image Quality: **** Low-Light Performance: ** Design: **** Price/Value: **** 800-929-4949; leupold.com

Perhaps it's thesturdy rubber armoring, firm-feeling focus and power adjustments and deepprotective recessing of the objective lens, but there is an aura of excellenceand confidence-inspiring indestructibility about this spotting scope. This wasevident in both the testers' written comments and their spoken comments afterthe testing was done (testers are forbidden to discuss individual products ortheir performance until all the scores and written comments are completed andturned in). John Snow's comments were typical: "Lightweight, handy, easy touse. Great for hauling in a pack. Excellent ergonomics. Good armor coating.Would love to take it hunting."

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Perfectbackpacking scope â¿ª Would even fit in a fanny pack â¿ª Excellent image sharpness

OUTDOOR LIFEEDITOR'S CHOICE 2006

LEUPOLD VX-L4.5--14X50

FINAL SCORE: F GVG [E]

Retail: $937 Image Quality: **** Low-Light Performance: **** Design: **** Price/Value: **** 800-929-4949; leupold.com

In this ingeniousdesign, Leupold has successfully incorporated the greater lightgatheringcapabilities of 50mm and 56mm objective lenses into riflescopes that mount aslow as ones with traditional 36mm and 40mm objective lenses. The light lossfrom the crescent-shaped cutout in the objective lens amounts to between 4 and5 percent, which is but a small fraction of the extra light gathered by thelarger objectives—anywhere from 50 to 100 percent—when compared with a 40mmriflescope.

Evidence that theVX-L ("L" is for Low) concept works as planned can be seen in thisriflescope's finish as best in its category in the low-light performancetest.

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Love the"eclipse" innovation â¿ª Most innovative optic of the test

OUTDOOR LIFE GREATBUY 2006

NIKON OMEGA3--9X40

FINAL SCORE: F GVG [E]

Retail: $250 Image Quality: **** Low-Light Performance: **** Design: **** Price/Value: **** 800-645-6698; nikonsportoptics.com

With several veryfine, yet reasonably priced, scopes in the lineup, the Great Buy designee wasin doubt for a while, yet in the end, all agreed that the Nikon Omega 3--9x40was it. Why? Aesthetically, it is a very handsome and well-proportioned scope,neither too big nor too small to fit and look good not only on muzzleloadersbut also on slug guns and featherweight centerfire rifles.

Of specialinterest to those who get their kicks and cut eyebrows from heavy-recoilingguns, there are 5 inches of eye relief at all magnifications. I especiallyliked the bullet-drop-compensating reticle, which is calibrated formuzzleloader trajectories at 100 to 250 yards.

TESTERS'COMMENTS

â¿ª Innovativereticle â¿ª User-friendly, visually attractive â¿ª Fine optics at a very reasonable price

[This articlecontains a table. Please see hardcopy of magazine or PDF.]

FULL-SIZE BINOCULARS	Price	Overall Rating	Image Quality	Low-Light Perf.	Design	Price/Value	Contact
EDITOR'S CHOICE LEICA GEOVID 8X56 BRF	$2,445	F G VG [E]	****	****	****	***	800-222-0118; leica-camera.com/usa
MEOPTA 10X50	$1,079	F G VG [E]	****	****	****	***	866-789-0555; meopta.com
GREAT BUY BUSHNELL LEGEND 10X42	$440	F G VG [E]	****	****	***	****	800-423-3537; bushnell.com
LEUPOLD GOLDEN RING 8X32	$900	F G [VG] E	***	***	****	***	800-929-4949; leupold.com
CABELA'S EURO 10X42	$800	F G [VG] E	***	****	***	***	800-237-4444; cabelas.com
WEAVER GRAND SLAM 10X42	$699	F G [VG] E	****	***	***	***	800-285-0689; weaveroptics.com
STEINER PEREGRINE 8.5X50	$999	F G [VG] E	****	****	***	***	800-257-7742; steiner-binoculars.com
KOWA DCF CAMO 10X42	$620	F G [VG] E	***	****	***	***	310-327-1913; kowa-usa.com
ZEISS CONQUEST 8X40	$1,000	F G [VG] E	***	****	***	***	800-441-3005; zeiss.com/sports
NIKON MONARCH 8X36	$250	F G [VG] E	**	***	***	***	800-645-6698; nikonsportoptics.com
SWIFT EAGLET 7X36	$430	F G [VG] E	***	***	**	***	800-523-4544; swiftoptics.com
CARSON XM 8X42	$300	F [G] VG E	**	****	**	**	800-967-8427; carson-optical.com
NRA 10X42	$229	F [G] VG E	**	**	**	***	307-857-4700; nrasportsoptics.com
BRUNTON EPOCH ZOOM 8--15X35	$1,899	F [G] VG E	***	***	**	*	800-443-4871; brunton.com
ALPEN TRAIL-TECH 8X42	$180	F [G] VG E	**	**	**	**	877-987-8379; alpenoutdoor.com

[This articlecontains a table. Please see hardcopy of magazine or PDF.]

COMPACT BINOCULARS	Price	Overall Rating	Image Quality	Low-Light Perf.	Design	Price/Value	Contact
EDITOR'S CHOICE ZEISS VICTORY 8X20 B T*	$455	F G [VG] E	****	**	****	****	800-441-3005; zeiss.com/sports
GREAT BUY STEINER MERLIN 8X24	$239	F G [VG] E	****	**	****	****	800-257-7742; steiner-binoculars.com
BUSHNELL TROPHY 8X27	$80	F G [VG] E	**	**	**	***	800-423-3537; bushnell.com
NIKON PROSTAFF 10X25	$191	F [G] VG E	**	**	**	**	800-645-6698; nikonsportoptics.com
CARSON NOSHOCK 10X25	$99	F [G] VG E	*	**	**	**	800-967-8427; carson-optical.com

[This articlecontains a table. Please see hardcopy of magazine or PDF.]

SPOTTING SCOPES	Price	Overall Rating	Image Quality	Low-Light Perf.	Design	Price/Value	Contact
EDITOR'S CHOICE NIKON FIELDSCOPE 50MM ED WITH 13--30X EYEPIECE	$700	F G VG [E]	****	**	****	****	800-645-6698; nikonsportoptics.com
GREAT BUY LEUPOLD GOLDEN RING 15--30X50 COMPACT	$499	F G [VG] E	****	**	****	****	800-929-4949; leupold.com
MEOPTA MEOSTAR APO HS75 WITH 20--60X EYEPIECE	$1,358	F G [VG] E	****	****	***	***	866-789-0555; meopta.com
CELESTRON ULTIMA 60SV 20--60X60	$249	F G [VG] E	**	****	**	***	310-328-9560; celestron.com
SIMMONS MASTER 15--45X60	$381	F G [VG] E	**	***	**	**	800-285-0689; simmonsoptics.com

[This articlecontains a table. Please see hardcopy of magazine or PDF.]

RIFLESCOPES	Price	Overall Rating	Image Quality	Low-Light Perf.	Design	Price/Value	Contact
EDITOR'S CHOICE LEUPOLD VX-L 4.5--14X50	$937	F G VG [E]	****	****	****	****	800-929-4949; leupold.com
KAHLES HELIA CL 3--10X50 WITH MULTIZERO	$799	F G VG [E]	****	****	****	***	866-606-8779; kahlesoptik.com
GREAT BUY NIKON OMEGA 3--9X40 MUZZLELOADER SCOPE	$250	F G VG [E]	****	****	****	****	800-645-6698; nikonsportoptics.com
SWAROVSKI PVI-2 2.5--10X56-L-4-1	$2,049	F G VG [E]	****	****	****	**	800-426-3089; swarovskioptik.at
SIMMONS PROHUNTER 3--9X40 WA	$150	F G [VG] E	***	****	***	***	800-285-0689; simmonsoptics.com
ZEISS VICTORY 2.5--10X42 T	$1,664	F G [VG] E	****	***	****	**	800-441-3005; zeiss.com/sports
BURRIS 3--10X40 SIGNATURE SELECT LRS BALLISTIC PLEXILLUMINATED RETICLE	$549	F G [VG] E	****	***	***	***	888-228-7747; burrisoptics.com
TRIJICON ACCUPOINT 3--9X40	$699	F G [VG] E	***	****	***	**	800-338-0563; trijicon.com
BUSHNELL ELITE 3200 3--9X40 WITH BALLISTICRETICLE	$397	F G [VG] E	**	***	**	***	800-423-3537; bushnell.com
SWIFT SR 2.5--10X50	$220	F G [VG] E	**	****	**	**	800-523-4544; swiftoptics.com
NRA 3.5--10X50	$249	F [G] VG E	*	****	**	**	307-857-4700; nrasportsoptics.com

THE RATINGS Excellent: **** Very Good: *** Good: ** Fair: *

Brightness Myth

TRUE OR FALSE?

1. The sun travels around the earth daily.

2. Apart from hills and valleys, the surface of theearth is flat.

3. Optical instruments make objects appearintrinsically brighter than when they are viewed directly by the naked eye.

All three statements are false.

The first two are classic examples of how we humanswere long deceived by our lying eyes. The third statement, another example ofhow our eyes mislead us, is still generally believed. This, despite the widelypublished fact that no optical instrument is capable of transmitting more thanabout 95 percent of the light that enters it. Actually, the telescopic view ofan object is always dimmer than the direct view of the object.

Our eyes deceive us regarding image brightness becauseof a "tunnel-vision effect" that occurs whenever the field of view issurrounded by contrasting areas of darkness, such as the blackened interiors ofan optical instrument. This apparent increase in brightness is bothpsychological, having to do with how the brain perceives contrasting lightlevels, and physiological, i.e., the eye pupils respond to the darkened area bydilating (opening up) to let in more of the available light. To experiencethese phenomena without optics, try looking through a tube fashioned from blackconstruction paper and see how much brighter things appear.

Optics From China

Despite a few sniffles and coughs, the health of theglobal optics industry is reasonably good. On the downside, Europeanmanufacturers are still struggling to keep prices within reach of cash-strappedAmerican hunters. One European company that is succeeding— no doubt due to itslower labor costs—is Meopta, located in the Czech Republic. Its binocular andspotting scope scored highly in this year's tests.

Most consequential is the huge volume of opticalproducts that are being made in China, which for better or worse, depending onone's views on world trade, is rapidly becoming an economic superpower. Thus itwas with great interest that we tested the many Chinese-made optics that cameour way. As expected, the results varied widely. A few products were so badthey were unceremoniously bumped from consideration, while others were as goodas anything manufactured anywhere. The difference, we suspect, lies in theamount of quality control being exercised by the parent optical companies thathave moved production to China.

As one who remembers Japan's entrance into the opticsmarket after World War II, I'll bet the ranch that the quality andinnovativeness found in Chinese-made products will soon improve markedly.

Smart Reticles

Whether real solutions to real problems or merelyme-tooisms, smart reticles with integrated aiming aids, such as bullet-dropcompensation (BDC), windage correction and stadia-type range finders, are verymuch in vogue. Of the 11 riflescopes tested, 5 had smart reticles or theequivalents thereof.

These included Burris's LRS Ballistic Plex; Bushnell'ssimple and straightforward Trophy TRX Ballistic reticle; Nikon's BDC and BDC-250 reticles, which feature "ballistic circles" instead of cross-baraiming points; Swift's Mil-dot reticle; and Kahles' MultiZero system, in whichthe shooter compensates for bullet drop by turning the elevation-adjustmentdial.

Though not featured on our test scope, Leupold nowoffers reticles tailor-made to match the trajectory of an individual shooter'sgun and ammo. Presumably, this bumper crop of smart reticles owes its existenceto the popularity of laser range finders—knowing exact target distances is moremeaningful if your reticle has aiming points for specific ranges.

Adjusting Binoculars

outdoorlife-editor — Thu, 30 Sep 2004 20:00:00 -0400

Interestingly, about 90 percent of the people who own binoculars don't know how to focus them properly. This is particularly true of center-focus models. Without proper focusing, the best binoculars have no advantage over the worst. The following information will help you get the most from your hunting binocular.

1 SET EYEPIECE SPACING The distances between the pupils of human eyes, called interpupillary distance (IPD), can vary greatly, ranging from about 55mm to 75mm, with the average being 66mm. Begin by holding the binocular in a normal viewing position. Then, while grasping the barrels firmly with your hands, move them either closer together or farther apart until the images seen by your eyes form a single circular field of view. If the binocular has an IPD scale, note the setting for future reference. In any event, you'll need to readjust when glassing nearby objects. With practice, you'll be doing it automatically in a couple of seconds.

2 CHOOSE EYECUP HEIGHT Adjustable eyecups, which are common on most modern binoculars, serve the dual purpose of excluding extraneous sidelight and positioning the eye pupils the correct distance from the eyepieces so as to see the instrument's full field of view. The commonly used types of eyecups include rubber roll-down, pop-up or twist-up. Normally, the eyecups should be in the "up" position for non-eyeglass wearers and in the "down" position for eyeglass wearers. Conformity aside, they can be positioned to fit your needs, which is especially easy with modern eyecups that have intermediate positions.

3 FOCUS THE LENSES

Center-focusing binoculars are the most common type. Beside the center focusing wheel, there usually is a separate diopter adjustment that serves to compensate for unequal vision that might exist between the viewer's two eyes. The diopter adjustment, which often has a scale showing plus (+) and minus (-) diopter settings on opposite sides of a zero (0) marker, might consist of a focusing ring located on the right eyepiece or it might exist as a cleverly disguised but separate function of the central-focusing system.

Diopters in these positions will adjust only the right optical system. However, on some models, such as Steiner's center-focus binocular and the majority of zoom-type binoculars, the diopter setting is located on the left eyepiece, where it will adjust only the left optical system.

4 FOCUS NON-DIOPTER SIDE Using a lens cover or your hand, cover the objective (front) lens on the side of the binocular that has the diopter setting. Then, using the center-focus wheel, focus the side without the diopter setting on a distant object with fine detail, such as tree branches.

5 ADJUST DIOPTER SETTING While taking care not to change the setting of the center-focus wheel, uncover the objective lens on the diopter side, cover the opposite objective lens, and view the same tree with your other eye. Then, using the diopter setting, focus on the tree branches until the details sharpen again. At this point, it should appear sharp when viewed with both eyes. If not, you'll need to repeat the process until you get it right. Once you've made the proper adjustments, you can focus on targets at any distance simply by turning the center-focus wheel. If there is a diopter scale, note the setting for future reference. With practice, this procedure will become second nature and you'll be doing it from scratch in less than a minute. (Note: If you reverse the procedure and begin by using the diopter setting, you'll never get the focus exactly right.)

6 FOCUS BOTH SIDES

The focusing procedure is essentially the same as for the diopter adjustment on center-focus binoculars (see step 5), except that it must be done individually for both barrels.

Another difference is that, while experienced users of center-focus binoculars tend to refocus more or less continually, the users of individual-focus binoculars tend to adjust them for either intermediate or long ranges and refocus only when it is necessary.

As the name implies, fixed-focus binoculars have no focusing system. Instead, the optics have been permanently pre-focused by the manufacturer at infinity for people having 20/20 vision. Though obviously not for everyone, these binoculars work surprisingly well for young people with normal vision in both eyes or people whose sight has been aided by eyeglasses or contact lenses.

Some owners of fixed-focus binoculars believe that they focus automatically. Rather, it is the focusing ability of the viewer's eyes that causes objects at varying distances to appear sharp.

If you're like most hunters, you own binoculars that must be manually focused. To do what you require of them, they're the best type.

Focused For Success

outdoorlife-editor — Tue, 31 Aug 2004 20:00:00 -0400

Recently, after intentionally using an incorrect focusing procedure on an impeccably good 3.5-15x50 riflescope with an adjustable objective, I got 10 inches of parallax at a distance of 300 yards and 24 inches at 500 yards. To create such horrendous parallax, all I did was set the objective-focusing/parallax adjustment for 50 yards and refocus the image for long-range viewing by using the eyepiece-focusing mechanism. Can such focusing errors occur inadvertently? You bet, and all too easily.

1. WHEN A SCOPE IS FOCUSED PROPERLY

A correctly focused scope is one in which both the reticle (crosshairs) and the target image appear perfectly sharp--reticle sharpness is the result of proper eyepiece focusing, whereas target sharpness is the result of proper objective-lens focusing. An incorrectly focused scope is one in which either the reticle or the target image or both appear fuzzy.

All telescopic sights have some means of eyepiece (ocular) focusing, the only legitimate purpose of which is to make the reticle appear sharp to the viewer's eye. Using the eyepiece-focusing mechanism to sharpen the target image (which is possible) will result in the reticle looking blurry. Moreover, eyepiece focusing is incapable of changing either the scope's parallax-free distance or its Point of Aim (POA).

2. TYPES OF EYEPIECE FOCUSING

There are two types of eyepiece focusing: American and European. With American-type eyepieces, a correct focus is achieved by screwing the entire eyepiece housing either backward or forward on fine threads until the image of the reticle appears perfectly sharp, at which point the housing is secured in place with a lock ring. The lock ring can be loosened without tools by grasping the eyepiece housing with your hand and rotating it counterclockwise away from the ring. European-type eyepieces are easier to use but less secure. They are focused by rotating a "fast-focus ring" located at the end of the eyepiece.

3. WHY FOCUS AT ALL?

The first step in eyepiece focusing is to determine if it is needed. Begin by pointing the scope toward a plain background, such as the sky or a light-colored wall. If the reticle appears very sharp and very black, it is properly focused and no adjustments are necessary. If the reticle looks fuzzy or otherwise indistinct, go to step 5.

4. HOW TO NAIL THE FOCUS

If your scope has only eyepiece focusing, your focusing chores are done--at least until your vision changes or some inconsiderate oaf tampers with the mechanism. But if your scope also has a focusable objective, you must go to the next step.

Regardless of what you call the mechanism that makes it happen, objective focusing and parallax correction are two sides of the same coin. Unlike eyepiece focusing, which should be used only to make the reticle appear sharp, objective focusing simultaneously performs two very important functions: 1) superimposing a perfectly sharp image of the target on the scope's reticle; and 2) eliminating parallax at the target distances you specify.

5. OBJECTIVE FOCUSING ADJUSTMENTS

As was the case with eyepiece focusing, there are two distinct types of objective-focusing systems: the traditional adjustable objective (AO) and modern side focusing. An adjustable objective consists of a focusing ring located on the scope's objective bell that moves the entire objective lens assembly either forward or backward so that the image of the target falls precisely on the reticle. A side-focusing adjustment consists of a knob located on the left side of the windage and elevation turret that moves an auxiliary lens back and forth within the scope tube to accomplish the same end. Side focusing is more user-friendly in that the knob is easier to reach from a shooting position.

6. DIFFERENT WAYS, SAME RESULTS

To use scopes with adjustable objectives without focusing, simply set the parallax-free distance at either 100 or 150 yards. This will let you shoot quickly and with sufficient accuracy for big game at any range.

KEEP IT CLEAN

Use the lens brush to safely whisk away dirt and dust particles. Apply a small amount of the the cleaning liquid to a lens tissue or cotton-tipped applicator and wipe the lens surfaces using a circular motion, beginning at the center and working toward the edges. For a quick cleaning, simply moisten the lens surfaces by breathing on them.

Dry the lens surfaces by wiping them gently with lens tissues or the dry ends of cotton-tipped applicators--never with a shirt or handkerchief. Finish by polishing the lenses with the microfiber cloth.

Understanding Parallax

With one eye closed, point your finger at a small object located several feet away. Holding your finger still, move your head from side to side and notice how your finger appears to move laterally relative to the object. This optical phenomenon, called "parallax," also appears in improperly focused telescopic sights as an apparent movement of the reticle relative to the target image when the eye is moved from side to side in the scope's exit pupil.The illustrations below show two ways parallax can occur. The first shows the image of the target, formed by the objective lense, falling in front of the reticle. The second shows the image falling behind the reticle. And the third shows a parallax-free image. The viewing distance determines the target-image position within the scope. The good news is that scopes with adjustable objectives can eliminate parallax for any particular distance by focusing the objective so that the target image falls precisely on the reticle.Scopes with fixed-focus objectives are permanently adjusted by the manufacturer to be parallax free at a specific distance: either 100 or 150 yards/meters for centerfire riflescopes and somewhere between 50 and 75 yards/meters for rimfire, shotgun and muzzleloader scopes. Unless defective, such scopes won't have more than about 1 inch of parallax at any reasonable shooting distance.