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To:Mountainman365 If the teeth get loose turn the head over and add a little superglue to all of them but not too much as it will run if ya use too much.
To:MCGullikson your way is very interesting but I cant wait that long look on my post and see How i do it,takes about 5 days and cost me about $15.00 bucks.
To:Brogan147 We do alot of the samethings but I boil mine and then I use pure 3% peroxide instead of mixing with water and my way takes about 5 days lol im impatiant Gotta see what it looks like on the wall Wanna see a pic e-mail me email@example.com
Everyone has different ways I personally prefer the European mount to retain the real thing.
I boil the skull in water and Dawn dishwashing liquid then soak it in hydrogen peroxide if it gets on the horns I fix it with boot polish then seal all of it with water base paint to keep it from yellowing.
You can use a spray clear coat or varnish on the horns to keep them from looking dull it works good, I have been doing it for years.
I have used most of these methods, with borax, not bleach. I had trouble when bleach got on antlers. I boil it outside, take a wire bruch to it, boil it again and it looks great, if I need to clean more, I have a spray bottle with water bleach mix so I can mist it on the skull away from the antlers. I take a permanent marker and write the year on the top of the skull between the antlers-- it helps keep the years straight!!
Nice to know the right way to do it. I've gotten several of my deer shoulder-mounted, but being as how that takes up a lot of space in the house (can't upset the wife too much...), and costs more than I could see spending on a little fork-horn, I did my own Euro mount 2 years ago. I stripped the flesh as best I could, then submerged it in a bass pond I've got with lots of crawdads, suspended above the bottom by the antlers with rope, for about 4 months. The springs feeding the pond as well as the ditch draining it kept a steady flow of fresh water, and the crawdads and bugs did the rest. After pulling it out, I hosed it down with high-pressure hot water and a stiff brush, and it turned out beautifully.
Skip, that's how I mount my skulls, been doing it that way for 40 years, I like the natural LQQK!
My variation is to make the front cut throught the top of the eyesockets, the back cut at 90deg to the front cut. Clean off the exposed bone- note- do not skin the skull cap, and when sawing, try to get the saw under the hair.
Coat the bone and exposed hide with borax and/or salt and leave in refrigderator for a couple weeks.
The skull can then be screwed onto a plaque with the screwhead hidden by the hair, or mounted using ties. I also cut a small wood "shelf" to closely match the outline of the bottom of the skull cap (the cut throught the eyesockets) so the antlers kind of sit on that. I sand or trim any bone exposed at the edges of the hide by shrinkage. I have some like this that I did 20-25 years ago and they have not dteriorated in the least.
I also prefer the European mount. My method: 1st, Skin the head and remove as much meat, matter as you can to include tounge, eyes, etc., etc., 2nd, take the skull and place into a five gallon bucket and fill to cover skull, let sit for few days and then change water. This is the natural wy for everything else to rot off. After several days I will take water hose with high pressure nozel and spray skull which will remove lose matter. When the skull is completly clean of matter, rinse bucket and mix hydrogen peroxide with water, I use no bleach, place skull back into water for several days, skull will turn white. After several days remove skull from water mix and place in sun for several days to dry. You can then mount to plaque or what ever. This process takes approx. five to six weeks. Also great results. Tks for the article.
I prefer the European mount with full skull. I found that boiling loosens the teeth, so when I found an article in a 1974 O.L. magazine in my home library that calls for a hydrogen peroxide/bleach mixture, I tried it. you must clean as much flesh and tissue as possible first along with removing the brain. Cover as much of the skull as possible without submerging the antlers. With my elk head, I used sponges and old socks to soak the exposed area between the antler bases. Caution:The bleach will deteriorate the thin skull under the jaw and around the sinus if left for more than a few days. The mixture will eat most of the tissue and flesh off the skull. I rinsed the skull and shook it out. I put borax in the brain and sinus cavities while it was still wet. This drys out what is left and eliminates any lingering odor. I have done two deer this winter and I am just about done with the elk.
Great results, Thanks Outdoor Life!
I do all of my antlers this way. However, instead of the leather or rubber I use camo fabric with quilt batting behind it. The batting makes the fabric stand up off the skull and use hot glue to fasten it all down. You can use any type of fabric you want I have seen people use red or blue hankerchiefs that looked good too.
This was a very informative article... although I could mount some of mine with a small wad of chewed bubble gum.
This is great OL thanks for sharing. I brought my antlers from this years deer to a taxidermist and he basically did the same thing and charged me $120! I had done it myself in the past but it always looked bad because I didn't have good instructions/photos to go by. Definitely bookmarking this for next year.
This a great way to display your trophy.I like the antler mounts as good as shoulder mounts.The combination of both look good on a wall.
Thanks i told my uncle about this and it worked 4 him
I usually mount my own but often just hang the clean, dry skull plate like hanging a picture. This is on my shop wall and not in the living room, of course. When I put them on a plaque (home made) I basically "wing it" but in general go about it as has been described by some above.
i recomend that when cutting the antlers from the skull that the front cut be through the eye socket and the rear cut be lower than shown here. This ensures that enough of the skull is removed to have a complete circle beneath the antlers. It is much stronger this way. Before i started doing this two of my racks split in half.
I also use the ties to not ruin some of the natural strength and intergrity of the skull. Another tip is to peal the skin asap, the longer you wait the harder it becomes to take the hide off the skull.
i also do mine differently. instead of drilling holes in the skull i drill holes in the plaque itself, then i use fastening ties to cinch down the deer to the plaque i feel like you get a better hold with that approach and you don't ruin the skull if you'd like to use it for something else in the future!
i do mine a bit different , i start a bit back of the antler bases with the angle extending at the eyebrow , then i cut across above the brow line ,this gives the skull plate a bit more strength for drilling ,mountingan in the event when they are dropped ,
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