Elk hug the shadows like haints, haunting hunters occasionally with bugles that both mock and encourage. If you hear a bugle, use a favorable wind and race to it. You’ll need legs like a packhorse and lungs like an Olympic biathlete. In fact, the USA’s twin biathletes, Lanny and Tracy Barnes of Durango, grew up hunting the Lizard and credit it with their success. Mainly, you’ll need fortitude, because the country is rife with bears, cats, sheer cliffs, and whimsical weather. What you won’t see, if you get away from the trailheads, is a lot of people.