I reloaded, donned my parka and boots and walked to where the bear had been hit. Surprisingly, I saw no blood, and following his tracks to the ice ridge, I found only a small peppering of blood on the snow. I stood in the light of the Arctic moon, which was up 24 hours a day this time of year. I had never before seen the North Star so immediately overhead. As if on cue, the northern lights began to play in the sky, in pale pinks, greens and whites.