We land on a hummocky airstrip beside a collection of hand-hewn cabins thrown up along the Spatsizi. It’s as though I’ve been tossed back in time. Hyland Post, as this settlement is called on maps, has been a fur-trading camp, an Indian mission, a post office, and a wilderness general store. Now it’s headquarters for Collingwood Brothers, one of the best-regarded big-game outfits in British Columbia. You can get here only by air, jet boat, or horse.