But by far the best meal we shared was on Patriot’s Day, May 25, a holiday commemorating a crucial event in the country’s struggle for independence. Everyone at the lodge, plus friends and neighbors, came for the celebration. We put on flag pins, uncorked the good wine, and gathered around a long table for the feast. The empanadas were out of this world. Stuffed with ground beef, caramelized onions, scallions, green olives, and hard-boiled eggs, the light dough was deep-fried in beef tallow until crisp and flaky. They were the best I have ever eaten, and I’ve eaten a lot of empanadas. But the real treat was locro, a traditional stew containing acorn squash, beans, skirt steak, pork ribs, sausage, flank steak, and other unidentified hunks of meat hanging off of bits of bone. You couldn’t cram anything else, or more flavor, in the dish. I could only hope that the small, stocky Argentinian horses would hold up under the strain.