As you might recall, I love to fry fresh fish in a saltine breading and eat them with tartar sauce, but I have been trying to use some of the fish I catch in new—and international—ways. A while back I was at a Vietnamese restaurant and ordered the shrimp spring rolls. The spring roll wrapper was lighter and crispier than an egg roll wrapper would be, and the shrimp on the inside was sweet and delicate. I asked the owner if he would share the recipe with me. He said if he did that, I would never come back. He did end up telling me the basics of what went into it though, and I tried it for the first time with perch but I've used crappies and sunfish as well. I've made these spring rolls probably a dozen times, and have tweaked the recipe little by little. And I think I've finally got it right.