We met Alton for the first time the next morning. In his mid-30s, he grew up in Belize City but has spent the majority of his adult life around the atoll, working with marine researchers and as a fishing guide. With his dreadlocks bundled up in a bandanna and a smile as broad as the Caribbean horizon, he looked like a flats guide out of central casting. We grabbed a few crab patterns and a handful of sparkly shrimp patterns, sizes 6 and 8, in green, red, and pink, from the lodge’s small fly shop and headed out in our small skiff. The three of us motored to the north end of the atoll, passing a bottlenose dolphin and her calf, to a small secluded lagoon ringed by mangroves. It took a minute for my eyes to adjust, but I soon spotted bonefish everywhere—tail tips along the shore, dark shadows cruising over grass, flashes of silver in the deeper water by the boat as they rolled and fed.