Like the pintail, canvasbacks are highly sought not just because, for most of us, they represent a fleeting opportunity at a big, handsome duck that’s here today, gone tomorrow. It was their “King Duck” status during waterfowling’s heyday that makes them most intriguing. During Chesapeake Bay’s market-gunning days, their flavorful meat brought the highest prices in posh, East Coast hotels and restaurants. Nowadays, with wild celery beds severely diminished, this diver can be a crap shoot dining-wise. Inland they tend to be excellent; in saltwater not so much. Still, for most waterfowlers they remain a prized trophy with their distinctive russet-colored head and black sloping bill, black breast and bright-white belly.