old Bay, Alaska, isn’t much of a destination for tourists, or anyone else for that matter. The year-round population is said to be somewhere around 100 people, give or take, but after spending a week there I think that number is inflated. You end up seeing the same faces whether you’re at the bar, the grocery store, or the post office, or walking around the town’s packed-gravel roads. What is certain, however, is that there are more houses than people, many of which look abandoned, having been beaten down by the salt and wind and cold. Without doubt, Cold Bay also has more communications gear per capita than any other place on the planet. The treeless tundra-covered hills in and around town bristle with antennas, radar domes, oversize convex dishes, and strange structures that defy easy categorization but are clearly designed to emit, or detect, electronic signals of some sort for some purpose. They are modern-day reminders of the town’s military history.